try an upholstery cleaner. Nature's Miracle might take the red off! Also, try putting foil on the couch to teach your bunny not to jump on it.What is good for removing pet rabbit stains from a red couch?
Woolite Pet Stain %26amp; Odor Remover. It works great on furniture and carpet.What is good for removing pet rabbit stains from a red couch?
D-con
Tuesday, August 24, 2010
How can I build an indoor rabbit hutch that is tall and slender like a bookcase with ramps?
I need to build an indoor rabbit hutch that is tall and slender like a bookcase with ramps.How can I build an indoor rabbit hutch that is tall and slender like a bookcase with ramps?
^yes, just buy a cheap bookcase n convert it.. Needs a little diy, but works wonders, my rabbit's having fun! Just remember to but womethin on the front of it... Someone ws having a blonde moment n left the bookcase open, and was wondering why her rabbits were constantly on the floor.. :P
so, a bookcase with slides, ladders, tubes... :)How can I build an indoor rabbit hutch that is tall and slender like a bookcase with ramps?
With wood, a hammer and nails.
Maybe you should try getting a cheap bookcase and adding on wood for ramps.
Well, you'll probably make your rabbit go mad if you do that.. that little space....
^yes, just buy a cheap bookcase n convert it.. Needs a little diy, but works wonders, my rabbit's having fun! Just remember to but womethin on the front of it... Someone ws having a blonde moment n left the bookcase open, and was wondering why her rabbits were constantly on the floor.. :P
so, a bookcase with slides, ladders, tubes... :)How can I build an indoor rabbit hutch that is tall and slender like a bookcase with ramps?
With wood, a hammer and nails.
Maybe you should try getting a cheap bookcase and adding on wood for ramps.
Well, you'll probably make your rabbit go mad if you do that.. that little space....
Is It Safe To Give My Rabbit Hay With Dried Up Peppermint Plants?
I bought it from a pet shop and I was just wandering if it is dangerous.Is It Safe To Give My Rabbit Hay With Dried Up Peppermint Plants?
Its ok, the fact that its in a pet shop should be confirmation enough but I admire you for being careful. Though rabbits don't like changes in the diet.Is It Safe To Give My Rabbit Hay With Dried Up Peppermint Plants?
Should be fine. The question is whether your rabbit will like it.
I don't see why not.
no its fine.
Its ok, the fact that its in a pet shop should be confirmation enough but I admire you for being careful. Though rabbits don't like changes in the diet.Is It Safe To Give My Rabbit Hay With Dried Up Peppermint Plants?
Should be fine. The question is whether your rabbit will like it.
I don't see why not.
no its fine.
How can i ';Potty Train'; my rabbit at home is it possible? or willl i have to take it to the vet?
and does it have to be spayed and neutered to be ';trained?';How can i ';Potty Train'; my rabbit at home is it possible? or willl i have to take it to the vet?
true! haha they make a mess.How can i ';Potty Train'; my rabbit at home is it possible? or willl i have to take it to the vet?
I've had two males rabbits in the past, both neutered and both litter box trained. I have read that it is better, and even recommended, to have your rabbit spayed or neutered. It will be easier to litter box train and it won't spray.
I kept a litter box in their cage in the corner they used as a bathroom. That helped them get used to using it. After that, I would let them loose in a small confined room with the litter box placed in a corner. I did not leave them alone; I watched them and would put them in the box if they seemed like they had to go. They are creatures of habit so if they prefer a different corner, move the litter box there. It really didn't take them that long to learn and use the litter box consistently.
With consistency and patience, you can successfully train a rabbit. Do not get angry or punish the rabbit for an accident. Just like a cat, put them in the litter box if it makes a mistake. Good luck! Here are some websites for you to review.
Depending on the age of your rabbit if your rabbit is younger it will be easy but if it is older it may be more difficult with my rabbit you can buy a corner litterbox made for a rabbit or use a little box put a treat inthere so it gets use to going in there and put it inthere once in awhile it wil get used to it and start going in there it doees not have to be spayed or neutered
get a litter box put some liteer at the bottom( only enough to cover the bottom) then buy some hay or grass ( the kind for rabbit) you can find it at your local pet store. put the grass or hay on top of that. rabbits tend to eat where they poop, so he should go in it. just drop him in it a few times and them wha la! he's trained and won't poop everywhere and anywhere. we use thius at the humane society where i work.
bunnys and rabbits...just poop anywhere they will even sometimes eat it!
it is IMPOSIBLE to potty train a bunny or rabbit
hope this helpsbeauty
true! haha they make a mess.How can i ';Potty Train'; my rabbit at home is it possible? or willl i have to take it to the vet?
I've had two males rabbits in the past, both neutered and both litter box trained. I have read that it is better, and even recommended, to have your rabbit spayed or neutered. It will be easier to litter box train and it won't spray.
I kept a litter box in their cage in the corner they used as a bathroom. That helped them get used to using it. After that, I would let them loose in a small confined room with the litter box placed in a corner. I did not leave them alone; I watched them and would put them in the box if they seemed like they had to go. They are creatures of habit so if they prefer a different corner, move the litter box there. It really didn't take them that long to learn and use the litter box consistently.
With consistency and patience, you can successfully train a rabbit. Do not get angry or punish the rabbit for an accident. Just like a cat, put them in the litter box if it makes a mistake. Good luck! Here are some websites for you to review.
Depending on the age of your rabbit if your rabbit is younger it will be easy but if it is older it may be more difficult with my rabbit you can buy a corner litterbox made for a rabbit or use a little box put a treat inthere so it gets use to going in there and put it inthere once in awhile it wil get used to it and start going in there it doees not have to be spayed or neutered
get a litter box put some liteer at the bottom( only enough to cover the bottom) then buy some hay or grass ( the kind for rabbit) you can find it at your local pet store. put the grass or hay on top of that. rabbits tend to eat where they poop, so he should go in it. just drop him in it a few times and them wha la! he's trained and won't poop everywhere and anywhere. we use thius at the humane society where i work.
bunnys and rabbits...just poop anywhere they will even sometimes eat it!
it is IMPOSIBLE to potty train a bunny or rabbit
hope this helps
How much time day does a rabbit graze each day?
I have a rabbit that comes in my yard every couple of days (and I see him neighbor's yards, too). He is too cute and I love watching him eat out my window as I eat dinner or whatnot.
They are most active in the evening and night, I hear.How much time day does a rabbit graze each day?
My guess is probably 3-5 hours, morning, evening hours.
Daytime is spent counting sheep.
They are most active in the evening and night, I hear.How much time day does a rabbit graze each day?
My guess is probably 3-5 hours, morning, evening hours.
Daytime is spent counting sheep.
How many foot pounds of energy does it take to take down a rabbit ?
You can kill a rabbit with 6 ft lbs of energy with an air rifle.
http://www.airgun.co.uk/Understanding_Te…
However 12 lbs works best and most the adult air rifles can put out that and more.
And air rifles are not all toys the adult rifles send a .177 cal pellet over 1200 ft per second. The have large caliber air rifles including a .50 cal;
http://www.airgunsbbguns.com/Career_Drag…
People have been KILLED with an air rifle.
http://www.pubmedcentral.nih.gov/article…
I have killed rabbits with pump up air pistols and rifles in both .22 cal and .177. I had a Crossman .177 air rifle that barely made 620 ft per sec and killed rabbits up to 20 yards with brain shots. And all .22 rim fire ammo worked except for the CB cap .22 rim fire. I had a few of them actually bounce off a rabbit at 10 feet.
I wanted to ad that with about 40 ft lbs of energy the .22 long rifle can kill a rabbit a 100 yardsa away and more if you can hit its head. I have killed small game with my ruger 10/22 up to 130 yards.How many foot pounds of energy does it take to take down a rabbit ?
I've taken rabbits out at 30-50 yards with my tuned air rifles. My lowest powered one took a rabbit, it puts out
13.7flbs and shoots at 650-660fps. It's a .22 cal.
Remember, It also depends on how far the shot is taken, the longer the shot, the more power is needed. Also, shot placement is also critical. (head, between eye and ear, and chest shot are better for rabbits)How many foot pounds of energy does it take to take down a rabbit ?
Well we have a bit of disagreement on air rifle hunting! Now I do not dispute air rifle-target’s knowledge about punching paper targets with air guns. I went to your group and noticed “hunting” was not a topic. Well here is a list of the things I have killed with an air rifle in over a half century WITH BRAIN SHOTS;
Small birds, quail, grouse, pigeons, pheasants, ducks, geese, turkey, rabbits, squirrels, rats, groundhog, prairie dog, raccoon, marten, skunk, possum, ferial cats and on badger. And trust me a badger is one tough cookie but at 20 feet I put a .22 cal pellet through his ear and he dropped dead where he stood.
I agree the .177 is not suitable for things larger than a squirrel or rabbit. And you HAVE to hit their brain a body shot will lead to a suffering animal. Some like raccoons, need to be shot in the ear or in the back of the skull where it’s thin, a frontal skull shot will just glance off unless you have a VERY powerful air rifle.
In Europe air guns are used for hunting and have been for decades same goes for Japan.
Here are people who hunt with air guns.
http://www.survivalistboards.com/showthr…
http://www.crowbusters.com/begart3.htm
http://f4bscale.worldonline.co.uk/pest.h…
Here is a forum about air rifle hunting;
http://forums.cabelas.com/archive/index.…
Here is some air gun hunting history facts scroll down to air guns; http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hunting_wea…
Quote; “Air rifles have long been used as hunting weapons, for well over 200 years. Lewis %26amp; Clark, on their early journey through the Western United States, carried a repeating air rifle for use as a hunting weapon,”… “Air rifles are well suited for hunting small game such as squirrels and rabbits in commonly available powers. Such hunting is widely practiced in the United States and in the UK”…. “Large game air rifles have experienced a resurgence in the last several decades, and are now capable of taking all game in North America…”
Now what else will it take to prove the right air gun with the right pellet placement will take game? I left out air-shotguns that are used in Japan to hunt waterfowl.
Now back to the person asking the question. Air guns are NOT a toy they can kill people and have. Learn gun safety, also learn the limits of your gun. Start with paper and get real tight groups and see to it you can put all your shot in a quarter size group or less. Always aim for the ear canal or back of skull; you have to hit the brain on small game like rabbits.
And read what these hunter on the links above have to say about hunting with an air rifle. As others have said you want to kill it not wound it and have it suffer.
I will guess at 12, we'll just see by the other answers that come up.
I don't know about ';foot pounds'; but a .22LR from most rifles and handguns will do the trick. A few of my friend have switched to the .17 HMR for racoons so I'm sure those will work as well.
it doest need much if you hit it in the head, i use a .22lr for shots under 100 yards
I'd say 20 lbs is going to give you a clean, humane kill. That works out to 800 fps with a .22 caliber 14.3 gr pellet. Forget .177 for hunting.
it has been done with 12 ft lbs
the answer may surprise you. the average pellet fired from a pellet gun travels between 500 and 1000 fps (feet per second). at 500fps, the round carries approximately 8joules of energy (enough to put a hole in an aluminum can). conversely a round fired from a standard air-soft handgun travels an average of 250fps (4 joules or enough to ';shoot your eye out';) but rarely breaks the skin of most adult humans. rabbits have very thin (or easily damaged skin) and the energy from the impact of this plastic 6mm pellet can stop a rabbit's heart if you hit it in the right area (behind the shoulder blade). there is a formula on how to figure out what that is in foot pounds but I'll have to look that up.
the foot pounds of energy that is produced by a .22 caliber bullet fired from a rim fire gun, is ample. Anything less, will most times only wound the rabbit, allowing it to get away, then go someplace , to die a slow death.
if you are going to shoot ANY animal, do it with a weapon, that WILL kill, it in a very timely manner, not just wound it.
Pellet guns, are NOT legitimate hunting guns. but more of a TOY
http://www.airgun.co.uk/Understanding_Te…
However 12 lbs works best and most the adult air rifles can put out that and more.
And air rifles are not all toys the adult rifles send a .177 cal pellet over 1200 ft per second. The have large caliber air rifles including a .50 cal;
http://www.airgunsbbguns.com/Career_Drag…
People have been KILLED with an air rifle.
http://www.pubmedcentral.nih.gov/article…
I have killed rabbits with pump up air pistols and rifles in both .22 cal and .177. I had a Crossman .177 air rifle that barely made 620 ft per sec and killed rabbits up to 20 yards with brain shots. And all .22 rim fire ammo worked except for the CB cap .22 rim fire. I had a few of them actually bounce off a rabbit at 10 feet.
I wanted to ad that with about 40 ft lbs of energy the .22 long rifle can kill a rabbit a 100 yardsa away and more if you can hit its head. I have killed small game with my ruger 10/22 up to 130 yards.How many foot pounds of energy does it take to take down a rabbit ?
I've taken rabbits out at 30-50 yards with my tuned air rifles. My lowest powered one took a rabbit, it puts out
13.7flbs and shoots at 650-660fps. It's a .22 cal.
Remember, It also depends on how far the shot is taken, the longer the shot, the more power is needed. Also, shot placement is also critical. (head, between eye and ear, and chest shot are better for rabbits)How many foot pounds of energy does it take to take down a rabbit ?
Well we have a bit of disagreement on air rifle hunting! Now I do not dispute air rifle-target’s knowledge about punching paper targets with air guns. I went to your group and noticed “hunting” was not a topic. Well here is a list of the things I have killed with an air rifle in over a half century WITH BRAIN SHOTS;
Small birds, quail, grouse, pigeons, pheasants, ducks, geese, turkey, rabbits, squirrels, rats, groundhog, prairie dog, raccoon, marten, skunk, possum, ferial cats and on badger. And trust me a badger is one tough cookie but at 20 feet I put a .22 cal pellet through his ear and he dropped dead where he stood.
I agree the .177 is not suitable for things larger than a squirrel or rabbit. And you HAVE to hit their brain a body shot will lead to a suffering animal. Some like raccoons, need to be shot in the ear or in the back of the skull where it’s thin, a frontal skull shot will just glance off unless you have a VERY powerful air rifle.
In Europe air guns are used for hunting and have been for decades same goes for Japan.
Here are people who hunt with air guns.
http://www.survivalistboards.com/showthr…
http://www.crowbusters.com/begart3.htm
http://f4bscale.worldonline.co.uk/pest.h…
Here is a forum about air rifle hunting;
http://forums.cabelas.com/archive/index.…
Here is some air gun hunting history facts scroll down to air guns; http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hunting_wea…
Quote; “Air rifles have long been used as hunting weapons, for well over 200 years. Lewis %26amp; Clark, on their early journey through the Western United States, carried a repeating air rifle for use as a hunting weapon,”… “Air rifles are well suited for hunting small game such as squirrels and rabbits in commonly available powers. Such hunting is widely practiced in the United States and in the UK”…. “Large game air rifles have experienced a resurgence in the last several decades, and are now capable of taking all game in North America…”
Now what else will it take to prove the right air gun with the right pellet placement will take game? I left out air-shotguns that are used in Japan to hunt waterfowl.
Now back to the person asking the question. Air guns are NOT a toy they can kill people and have. Learn gun safety, also learn the limits of your gun. Start with paper and get real tight groups and see to it you can put all your shot in a quarter size group or less. Always aim for the ear canal or back of skull; you have to hit the brain on small game like rabbits.
And read what these hunter on the links above have to say about hunting with an air rifle. As others have said you want to kill it not wound it and have it suffer.
I will guess at 12, we'll just see by the other answers that come up.
I don't know about ';foot pounds'; but a .22LR from most rifles and handguns will do the trick. A few of my friend have switched to the .17 HMR for racoons so I'm sure those will work as well.
it doest need much if you hit it in the head, i use a .22lr for shots under 100 yards
I'd say 20 lbs is going to give you a clean, humane kill. That works out to 800 fps with a .22 caliber 14.3 gr pellet. Forget .177 for hunting.
it has been done with 12 ft lbs
the answer may surprise you. the average pellet fired from a pellet gun travels between 500 and 1000 fps (feet per second). at 500fps, the round carries approximately 8joules of energy (enough to put a hole in an aluminum can). conversely a round fired from a standard air-soft handgun travels an average of 250fps (4 joules or enough to ';shoot your eye out';) but rarely breaks the skin of most adult humans. rabbits have very thin (or easily damaged skin) and the energy from the impact of this plastic 6mm pellet can stop a rabbit's heart if you hit it in the right area (behind the shoulder blade). there is a formula on how to figure out what that is in foot pounds but I'll have to look that up.
the foot pounds of energy that is produced by a .22 caliber bullet fired from a rim fire gun, is ample. Anything less, will most times only wound the rabbit, allowing it to get away, then go someplace , to die a slow death.
if you are going to shoot ANY animal, do it with a weapon, that WILL kill, it in a very timely manner, not just wound it.
Pellet guns, are NOT legitimate hunting guns. but more of a TOY
How do i know if my rabbit is pregnant Please Help?
I went to the bathroom and came back and the male was on top of her and fell of like he was parlayed and now she Is acting like a jerk to me some times and my friends all the time.How do i know if my rabbit is pregnant Please Help?
If you have a male and female rabbit you can be 99% certain the female is pregnant.
It is really not a good idea to breed rabbits at it can be very dangerous if you're not sure what you're doing. How long ago was this? You should take them both to the vet and they might be able to do an emergency spay for the female to stop her having babies.
My best advice is get them both spayed and neutered. They will be a lot happier and healthier and you won't have to deal with finding homes for all the babies. If you don't keep males and females separate they will continue to breed with each other and soon you'll be overrun! Rabbits are so much friendlier when they've been neutered, less smelly and they live a lot longer.
By the way the male falling off her like that is normal after they've mated. But definitely see a vet as soon as you can. =)How do i know if my rabbit is pregnant Please Help?
hi there!! wat age are the rabbits?? it depends on the age of the rabbits!! i will get back to you when u give me the info about them!! why i asked for there age was that a doe has to be under a yaer old when you mate her because when they become a year there pelvic bone fues together and it can be hard for her to give birth but hope she should be ok as she is just on the year mark! count 30 days from the day he got in with her she will start to make a nest if she is! it sounds like she is!! good luck!!! let me know how you get on!!
Wait a while and monitor her behaviour and take her to the vets if she grows bigger or acts strangely.
If you have a male and female rabbit you can be 99% certain the female is pregnant.
It is really not a good idea to breed rabbits at it can be very dangerous if you're not sure what you're doing. How long ago was this? You should take them both to the vet and they might be able to do an emergency spay for the female to stop her having babies.
My best advice is get them both spayed and neutered. They will be a lot happier and healthier and you won't have to deal with finding homes for all the babies. If you don't keep males and females separate they will continue to breed with each other and soon you'll be overrun! Rabbits are so much friendlier when they've been neutered, less smelly and they live a lot longer.
By the way the male falling off her like that is normal after they've mated. But definitely see a vet as soon as you can. =)How do i know if my rabbit is pregnant Please Help?
hi there!! wat age are the rabbits?? it depends on the age of the rabbits!! i will get back to you when u give me the info about them!! why i asked for there age was that a doe has to be under a yaer old when you mate her because when they become a year there pelvic bone fues together and it can be hard for her to give birth but hope she should be ok as she is just on the year mark! count 30 days from the day he got in with her she will start to make a nest if she is! it sounds like she is!! good luck!!! let me know how you get on!!
Wait a while and monitor her behaviour and take her to the vets if she grows bigger or acts strangely.
How to treat or pop a rabbit abscess?
My rabbit was diagnosed with snuffles a month ago, and he developed an abscess right behind his eye. After a 20 day dose of Baytrill, the abscess moved to directly under his eye. I think it's growing bigger. How much does it cost to get it drained. My budget is 100 dollars. I'm not exactly rich so be logical. Is there anything I can do at home?How to treat or pop a rabbit abscess?
I would call the vet who saw him last month, explain to him what is happening, ask if this is something he feels you can take care of at home, and if not, will he work with you financially. Let him/her know your budget. They care very much for animals (or should) and most are very willing to work with you.
I could say 'do this, or do that', but in this case, I recommend you speak with your vet. Good luck
Here also is a site that may be of help to you
http://www.allexperts.com/browse.cgi?cat鈥?/a>How to treat or pop a rabbit abscess?
Snuffles and the abcess are caused by Pasturella, which can be treated, but the rabbit will continue to carry the bacteria. It will re-occur due to stress, high temp in the summer, pregnancy or travel can cause it to pop up. It is very contagious to other rabbits and you should not take it to shows or breed it with a healthy rabbit.
It sounds like it is getting worse, not better. I don't know how much your vet will charge to drain it and give more anti-biotics, but it will NOT get better by itself. Call them and expliain what is going on and ask how much it will be. It is always OK to ask.
Also, is your rabbit eating and drinking like normal? If it is not eating and drinking it's gut bacteria may have been disturbed by the anti-biotics. There is a paste in the feed store called ';bio pro'; or ';pro biotics'; that may help. Give two pea sized portions twice a day, morning and eve and you buns appetite may perk up.
If you have other rabbits KEEP THIS ONE AWAY from the rest, and wash your hands after you care for it. Your other buns could all get sick too.
Good Luck.
If it was a regular abscess, then you could try popping it at home. My vet several years ago gave me directions at how to correctly pop and drain them. However the situation you are referring to definitely needs a vet's expertise. Many good vets will give you an estimate if you ask for one before they charge you any money. Call your vet and ask what something like that might cost. I wouldn't try treating that on your own. That is a complicated procedure.
Some vets will work with you and figure out a way where you can finance the procedure over time.
I would call the vet who saw him last month, explain to him what is happening, ask if this is something he feels you can take care of at home, and if not, will he work with you financially. Let him/her know your budget. They care very much for animals (or should) and most are very willing to work with you.
I could say 'do this, or do that', but in this case, I recommend you speak with your vet. Good luck
Here also is a site that may be of help to you
http://www.allexperts.com/browse.cgi?cat鈥?/a>How to treat or pop a rabbit abscess?
Snuffles and the abcess are caused by Pasturella, which can be treated, but the rabbit will continue to carry the bacteria. It will re-occur due to stress, high temp in the summer, pregnancy or travel can cause it to pop up. It is very contagious to other rabbits and you should not take it to shows or breed it with a healthy rabbit.
It sounds like it is getting worse, not better. I don't know how much your vet will charge to drain it and give more anti-biotics, but it will NOT get better by itself. Call them and expliain what is going on and ask how much it will be. It is always OK to ask.
Also, is your rabbit eating and drinking like normal? If it is not eating and drinking it's gut bacteria may have been disturbed by the anti-biotics. There is a paste in the feed store called ';bio pro'; or ';pro biotics'; that may help. Give two pea sized portions twice a day, morning and eve and you buns appetite may perk up.
If you have other rabbits KEEP THIS ONE AWAY from the rest, and wash your hands after you care for it. Your other buns could all get sick too.
Good Luck.
If it was a regular abscess, then you could try popping it at home. My vet several years ago gave me directions at how to correctly pop and drain them. However the situation you are referring to definitely needs a vet's expertise. Many good vets will give you an estimate if you ask for one before they charge you any money. Call your vet and ask what something like that might cost. I wouldn't try treating that on your own. That is a complicated procedure.
Some vets will work with you and figure out a way where you can finance the procedure over time.
How can I learn to enjoy rabbit food?
You know lettuce, green and other unfun stuff. How can I make it actually tasty and enjoyable to eat, not to mention buy it in bulk, cheap and be able to store it for long periods of time?How can I learn to enjoy rabbit food?
I have to admit that if I don't eat a 'kitchen sink' salad at least once every other day, I'm a mess. It took a long time since knowing I had to stop eating fried foods and eat more salad (ie: side salad with my burger instead of fries) to actually love it. Now, I feel so crappy when I eat fried foods and don't get salad I regret it.
I guess what I'm saying is pay attention to your body and how it reacts when you eat a healthy meal instead of an unhealthy one. You can find a lot of motivation once you start to really listen to your energy, cravings, sleep, mood, and guts.
We buy organic salad green and spinach from the grocery store in the normal clam shells. When in the fridge these help the greens from getting squashed and going bad earlier than they should.
Also...we make a lot of salad but don't dress it till it is on a dish to eat. Dressing a salad will wilt it in no time.
Experiment with 'kitchen sink' salads, in other words, add everything and anything. Think about textures and color as these elements are what have been proven to have people consider a meal satisfying or not. So try crunchy, soft, add baked chicken chunks, seeds, dried fruit like cranberries, season fruit in the market. Don't forget some punch like scallions, red onion, or radishes. You can make a themed salad like feta cheese, olives, sun dried tomatoes and red onion for a greek salad, or Mexican with corn, black beans, onion, tomatoes, crushed up tortilla chips, etc.
A salad can be a balanced meal in itself so don't forget protein, dairy, nuts, etc.How can I learn to enjoy rabbit food?
Wow, when I first looked at your question I was thinking, ';what physco wants to learn how to accomodate bunny food?';, (I was thinking pellets and stuff). I was relieved to see your description.
What you have to do is take baby steps. Eat a little bit of lettuce and make it more exciting. Add dressings, croutons, spices. You can go to your local food market and find dozens of great dressing flavors. Try adding lots of carrots and beans or corn to add some healthy flavor. Drinking water or relaxing while eating your salad or veggies can get you accustomed to the flavor too.
If your worried about keeping it fresh, you can always go out and get those ';Debbie Meyers Green Bags'; that keep food fresh more than three times its original endurance.
Good luck and good eating!
I have to admit that if I don't eat a 'kitchen sink' salad at least once every other day, I'm a mess. It took a long time since knowing I had to stop eating fried foods and eat more salad (ie: side salad with my burger instead of fries) to actually love it. Now, I feel so crappy when I eat fried foods and don't get salad I regret it.
I guess what I'm saying is pay attention to your body and how it reacts when you eat a healthy meal instead of an unhealthy one. You can find a lot of motivation once you start to really listen to your energy, cravings, sleep, mood, and guts.
We buy organic salad green and spinach from the grocery store in the normal clam shells. When in the fridge these help the greens from getting squashed and going bad earlier than they should.
Also...we make a lot of salad but don't dress it till it is on a dish to eat. Dressing a salad will wilt it in no time.
Experiment with 'kitchen sink' salads, in other words, add everything and anything. Think about textures and color as these elements are what have been proven to have people consider a meal satisfying or not. So try crunchy, soft, add baked chicken chunks, seeds, dried fruit like cranberries, season fruit in the market. Don't forget some punch like scallions, red onion, or radishes. You can make a themed salad like feta cheese, olives, sun dried tomatoes and red onion for a greek salad, or Mexican with corn, black beans, onion, tomatoes, crushed up tortilla chips, etc.
A salad can be a balanced meal in itself so don't forget protein, dairy, nuts, etc.How can I learn to enjoy rabbit food?
Wow, when I first looked at your question I was thinking, ';what physco wants to learn how to accomodate bunny food?';, (I was thinking pellets and stuff). I was relieved to see your description.
What you have to do is take baby steps. Eat a little bit of lettuce and make it more exciting. Add dressings, croutons, spices. You can go to your local food market and find dozens of great dressing flavors. Try adding lots of carrots and beans or corn to add some healthy flavor. Drinking water or relaxing while eating your salad or veggies can get you accustomed to the flavor too.
If your worried about keeping it fresh, you can always go out and get those ';Debbie Meyers Green Bags'; that keep food fresh more than three times its original endurance.
Good luck and good eating!
Can someone with knowledge/experience in rabbit health help me answer this question?
I have 2 indoor rabbits I keep in my room. They like to have a towel in the cage, but I recently noticed that one or both of them have been eating small circle shaped bites out of it. It's a relatively thin towel, but I'm worried it could cause a blockage or something. Is it dangerous for them to chew it like that?
Thanks.Can someone with knowledge/experience in rabbit health help me answer this question?
Rabbits who eat them should not have fabric items in their cage, just to be on the safe side, though a small amount of undyed unbleached natural cotton likely would not cause problems. To substitute, try something like seagrass mats that are totally safe to ingest: http://www.catsandrabbitsandmore.com/inc鈥?/a>Can someone with knowledge/experience in rabbit health help me answer this question?
Rabbits need to chew. They rarely will actually eat the fabrics but they love to chew and pull out the strings. So if you supplied things it could safely chew, you wouldn't have to worry as much. If you get the rabbit spayed or neutered it will also chew less and less as it gets older.
Good safe things to chew are undyed cotton towel, 100% cotton batting (like from a fabric store, white T-shirts, apple wood, pine branches with no needles, or give your rabbit a basket full of hay to nibble and chew all day.
Your best to give them other items to chew such as a old telephone book, a used toilet roll stuffed with timothy hay, go to a pet store that sells grass mats or they also sell branches from trees which are rabbit chewing friendly, even a small box which you have cut some holes in will be chewedbeauty
Thanks.Can someone with knowledge/experience in rabbit health help me answer this question?
Rabbits who eat them should not have fabric items in their cage, just to be on the safe side, though a small amount of undyed unbleached natural cotton likely would not cause problems. To substitute, try something like seagrass mats that are totally safe to ingest: http://www.catsandrabbitsandmore.com/inc鈥?/a>Can someone with knowledge/experience in rabbit health help me answer this question?
Rabbits need to chew. They rarely will actually eat the fabrics but they love to chew and pull out the strings. So if you supplied things it could safely chew, you wouldn't have to worry as much. If you get the rabbit spayed or neutered it will also chew less and less as it gets older.
Good safe things to chew are undyed cotton towel, 100% cotton batting (like from a fabric store, white T-shirts, apple wood, pine branches with no needles, or give your rabbit a basket full of hay to nibble and chew all day.
Your best to give them other items to chew such as a old telephone book, a used toilet roll stuffed with timothy hay, go to a pet store that sells grass mats or they also sell branches from trees which are rabbit chewing friendly, even a small box which you have cut some holes in will be chewed
What do i do i a rabbit get scratched in the eye?
My rex got scratched IN the eye by another rabbit what do i do???What do i do i a rabbit get scratched in the eye?
You can use Terramycin eye ointment to prevent infection.What do i do i a rabbit get scratched in the eye?
take it to the vet.
I took one of my cats to a vet I had when I lived in Charleston 2 1/2 hours away because he was the only one who could help her. I vote take it to the vet if you love your pet.
you could rinse it out with some diluted salt water. Mix it yourself. But if it is really bad it may need to go to the vet.
Your rabbit needs to be seen by a rabbit-savvy vet immediately! The sooner the better. Depending on the severity of the scratches, it could cost your bunny it's vision, and the only way to know is to get him/her to a vet. Especially if she is bleeding!!!
take it to the vet or if you don't no where a vet is that will be a problem
put a female rabbit in his cage he will soon forget about his scratched eye with all the scratches on his back.
You can use Terramycin eye ointment to prevent infection.What do i do i a rabbit get scratched in the eye?
take it to the vet.
I took one of my cats to a vet I had when I lived in Charleston 2 1/2 hours away because he was the only one who could help her. I vote take it to the vet if you love your pet.
you could rinse it out with some diluted salt water. Mix it yourself. But if it is really bad it may need to go to the vet.
Your rabbit needs to be seen by a rabbit-savvy vet immediately! The sooner the better. Depending on the severity of the scratches, it could cost your bunny it's vision, and the only way to know is to get him/her to a vet. Especially if she is bleeding!!!
take it to the vet or if you don't no where a vet is that will be a problem
put a female rabbit in his cage he will soon forget about his scratched eye with all the scratches on his back.
What is the difference between a rabbit dachshund and a standard dachshund?
A Rabbit Dachshund is the working version of the Standard, they aren't bred for looks, but for working ability
A Standard Dachshund is usually the pet or show quality of this breed, they don't usually work and have a better temperment than the working one, but usually come with more health problems
A Standard Dachshund is usually the pet or show quality of this breed, they don't usually work and have a better temperment than the working one, but usually come with more health problems
Vinegar and water solution for cleaning rabbit cage?
I've heard that vinegar and water mixed is a great way to clean cages and get rid of amonia smell. However, I have also heard that you shouldn't use too much vinegar or the rabbit won't go to the bathroom there because they don't like the smell. My question is how much if the solution should be water and how much vinegar? And do you have any other suggestions for effective cage cleaning tricks?Vinegar and water solution for cleaning rabbit cage?
I use white vinegar and water to clean my sugar glider cage. It's 2 parts water to 1 part white vinegar, and it works very well. The smell isn't too strong and disappears when the cage is dry. There's also a spray made by Kaytee that you can buy for cage cleaning, although it's more expensive than good old water/vinegar. You can find it at Walmart.
I've never heard of a litter trained rabbit refusing to use the litter box because they didn't like the smell of the cage cleaner, but maybe a rabbit expert can chime in here.
Good luck!
I use white vinegar and water to clean my sugar glider cage. It's 2 parts water to 1 part white vinegar, and it works very well. The smell isn't too strong and disappears when the cage is dry. There's also a spray made by Kaytee that you can buy for cage cleaning, although it's more expensive than good old water/vinegar. You can find it at Walmart.
I've never heard of a litter trained rabbit refusing to use the litter box because they didn't like the smell of the cage cleaner, but maybe a rabbit expert can chime in here.
Good luck!
How do you know if a rabbit is a male or a female?
you throw a rock at it. if he runs then it's a male. if she runs then it's a female.
funny?
got a better answer?How do you know if a rabbit is a male or a female?
That is a good joke. But seriously, if it has a little slit, it is a girl. It it has a hole it is a boy. It will be easier to tell when the bunny gets older. Don't mistake the privates for the anal.How do you know if a rabbit is a male or a female?
Look at its private parts.
If you see two small balls,that means it is a male if you dont see it..it is a female...
Get serious... how are you helping people that have real questions??
your an idiot.
funny?
got a better answer?How do you know if a rabbit is a male or a female?
That is a good joke. But seriously, if it has a little slit, it is a girl. It it has a hole it is a boy. It will be easier to tell when the bunny gets older. Don't mistake the privates for the anal.How do you know if a rabbit is a male or a female?
Look at its private parts.
If you see two small balls,that means it is a male if you dont see it..it is a female...
Get serious... how are you helping people that have real questions??
your an idiot.
Can you keep a mini lop rabbit in a 10 gallon fish tank?
i want to get another pet that can fit in a 10 gallon fish tank and the mini lop is small and the kind i want to have would it fit in a 10 glon fish tank and be happy? and also i how much does it cost to own a mini lop?(yearly cost) and do you have to take mini lops t the vet?Can you keep a mini lop rabbit in a 10 gallon fish tank?
Absolutely not. A small rabbit would need at least 2' by 4' floor space. Mini lops are not at all guarenteed to be small, in fact my neighbor has four that are huge. It depends on how pure the genetics are, and well bred rabbits are very expensive, and in my opinion, not really worth it.
Here's a site that might help you with determining annual costs:
http://www.winnipeghumanesociety.ca/adop鈥?/a>
You MUST take all living animals to a vet.Can you keep a mini lop rabbit in a 10 gallon fish tank?
No, rabbits need to be in a cage with good air circulation, a fish tank would not provide that. A mini lop would grow to big for an enclosure of that size.
I'm glad you thinking ahead to what you might need for your rabbit. It shows a lot of good thought on your part that you are investigating each of these things before you actually make the purchase.
The size of the tank would just be too small for your rabbit. I would recommend at least something 18'; X 24';, but even that would be a little small for a mini lop. 24'; x 24'; would be best.
I would stay away from glass cages. Your rabbit will have a difficult time moving around on a glass bottom. This could result in injuries to your rabbit, including spay leg.
Because you only have one rabbit, the costs for raising that rabbit will be much higher than someone that has several rabbits. The reason is most breeders will buy 50lb bags of food for $10-$15. Because the food is only good for 30 days, you'll have to buy much smaller bags of food. A 5lb bag at a pet store will probably cost about $5. That food would last about two weeks. So you are looking at $125 just in basic food.
Your rabbit should also get hay as part of its diet. If you have farmers near you you can get hay for $2-$10 a bale. Which would last a long time.
You will also need to get a cage, and the appropriate dishes for your rabbit. I would recommend you look at the ARBA website and find a rabbit show near you. Usually their are cage dealers at those shows, and they will cost much less than in a store. You could probably get a cage for about $30. You'll also need to purchase grooming supplies.
Here in the US we do not have vaccinations for rabbits. Usually, you will not have to take them to the vet. You'll have to clip the nails yourself about once a month. If you rabbit gets sick, you could be looking at $60 or more to go to the vet.
Based on all that you are probably looking at a total cost of about $250.
I didn't mention toys, because to be honest with you I wouldn't buy any. You can provide many things for free that your bunny would enjoy. We have a list on our website.
Good luck with your bunny, they are a wonderful pet!
wtf no u should get arrested for animal abuse
no...bunnies need room to run..i wouldn't keep it in a fish tank..that is like an insult!
no i would not recomend keeping a bunny in a fish tank, if you want to keep a pet in a tank i would recomend a small rodant such as a mouse or hamster, or a small reptile such as a small lizard or frogs, rabbits need to graze on grass, and have space to hop around!
NO. They need room to at least walk around and stretch. I have had my rabbit for 6 months and I have already spent around $350. And that is without having him neutered, which costs around $170. I take my rabbit to the vet to get his nails trimmed, once a year for a check-up, and once to get him neutered.
no! they need 2x that much min
No - no! I'm sure you love your mini lop, but honey, bunnies need love, room , food and a place to go potty that isn't inside a cage. Use a wire cage lined with plastic, newspaper and a small animal bedding (I like Yesterday's News or a similar product). You shouldn't have to take the bunny to the vet unless he gets sick. Just the cost of food and a few treats now and then. Give your adorable pet the care he needs and he'll love you back. I've had a bunny I rescued from an animal control service about 10 years ago. CoCo - he is a dutch bunny and is very affectionate. He likes to get out of his cage for some exercise and chasing the two cats I have. They all get along great. He gets a lot of holding and petting - they need human interaction.
fish tanks are for fish and reptiles not rabbits.
Absolutely not! Rabbits need to be kept in RABBIT HUTCHES not fish tanks! It would be cruel and the rabbit would be miserable in such an enclosed space, not to mention that they need good ventilation, which a fish tank would not provide.
And you DO have to take them to the vets, just like any other animal...
Good Lord why are people so stupid?!?
absolutly not, they need lots of room to move, you can keep them in a backyard or frontyard, or you can get them a bigger cage but that one is too small.
Absolutely not. A small rabbit would need at least 2' by 4' floor space. Mini lops are not at all guarenteed to be small, in fact my neighbor has four that are huge. It depends on how pure the genetics are, and well bred rabbits are very expensive, and in my opinion, not really worth it.
Here's a site that might help you with determining annual costs:
http://www.winnipeghumanesociety.ca/adop鈥?/a>
You MUST take all living animals to a vet.Can you keep a mini lop rabbit in a 10 gallon fish tank?
No, rabbits need to be in a cage with good air circulation, a fish tank would not provide that. A mini lop would grow to big for an enclosure of that size.
I'm glad you thinking ahead to what you might need for your rabbit. It shows a lot of good thought on your part that you are investigating each of these things before you actually make the purchase.
The size of the tank would just be too small for your rabbit. I would recommend at least something 18'; X 24';, but even that would be a little small for a mini lop. 24'; x 24'; would be best.
I would stay away from glass cages. Your rabbit will have a difficult time moving around on a glass bottom. This could result in injuries to your rabbit, including spay leg.
Because you only have one rabbit, the costs for raising that rabbit will be much higher than someone that has several rabbits. The reason is most breeders will buy 50lb bags of food for $10-$15. Because the food is only good for 30 days, you'll have to buy much smaller bags of food. A 5lb bag at a pet store will probably cost about $5. That food would last about two weeks. So you are looking at $125 just in basic food.
Your rabbit should also get hay as part of its diet. If you have farmers near you you can get hay for $2-$10 a bale. Which would last a long time.
You will also need to get a cage, and the appropriate dishes for your rabbit. I would recommend you look at the ARBA website and find a rabbit show near you. Usually their are cage dealers at those shows, and they will cost much less than in a store. You could probably get a cage for about $30. You'll also need to purchase grooming supplies.
Here in the US we do not have vaccinations for rabbits. Usually, you will not have to take them to the vet. You'll have to clip the nails yourself about once a month. If you rabbit gets sick, you could be looking at $60 or more to go to the vet.
Based on all that you are probably looking at a total cost of about $250.
I didn't mention toys, because to be honest with you I wouldn't buy any. You can provide many things for free that your bunny would enjoy. We have a list on our website.
Good luck with your bunny, they are a wonderful pet!
wtf no u should get arrested for animal abuse
no...bunnies need room to run..i wouldn't keep it in a fish tank..that is like an insult!
no i would not recomend keeping a bunny in a fish tank, if you want to keep a pet in a tank i would recomend a small rodant such as a mouse or hamster, or a small reptile such as a small lizard or frogs, rabbits need to graze on grass, and have space to hop around!
NO. They need room to at least walk around and stretch. I have had my rabbit for 6 months and I have already spent around $350. And that is without having him neutered, which costs around $170. I take my rabbit to the vet to get his nails trimmed, once a year for a check-up, and once to get him neutered.
no! they need 2x that much min
No - no! I'm sure you love your mini lop, but honey, bunnies need love, room , food and a place to go potty that isn't inside a cage. Use a wire cage lined with plastic, newspaper and a small animal bedding (I like Yesterday's News or a similar product). You shouldn't have to take the bunny to the vet unless he gets sick. Just the cost of food and a few treats now and then. Give your adorable pet the care he needs and he'll love you back. I've had a bunny I rescued from an animal control service about 10 years ago. CoCo - he is a dutch bunny and is very affectionate. He likes to get out of his cage for some exercise and chasing the two cats I have. They all get along great. He gets a lot of holding and petting - they need human interaction.
fish tanks are for fish and reptiles not rabbits.
Absolutely not! Rabbits need to be kept in RABBIT HUTCHES not fish tanks! It would be cruel and the rabbit would be miserable in such an enclosed space, not to mention that they need good ventilation, which a fish tank would not provide.
And you DO have to take them to the vets, just like any other animal...
Good Lord why are people so stupid?!?
absolutly not, they need lots of room to move, you can keep them in a backyard or frontyard, or you can get them a bigger cage but that one is too small.
How can I keep my house rabbit chewing through all sorts of wires?
in my house?How can I keep my house rabbit chewing through all sorts of wires?
You need to ';bunny proof'; the areas your rabbit has access to. block off what you can with furniture, then buy clear, flexible tubing, cut a slit down the length and wrap around any exposed wires. They sell tubing specifically for this at the pet store that supposedly also tastes bad as well.
Good luck! =)How can I keep my house rabbit chewing through all sorts of wires?
You need to Rabbit proof your house like you would with a toddler. Block off access to the areas which have wires and where you don't want him. My rabbit is currently indoors and I let him out for a run but only when I am there to watch him and can tell him to come away from certain areas or block them using say my washing basket so he can't get to anything.
try putting lemon juice or pepper on the wires to keep him from chewing.
eat him
I keep my rabbit confined to one room with wires out of her reach.
He should be caged most of the time and when he is unsupervised. But if you like to let him run around so he gets excersice, its a good idea to get a small animal play pen thing. If they dont sell them at your pet store you can make one out of fence wire.
You can get your electrician to chew-proof your wires. Hope it helps!
put duct tape all over the wires or just don't let him that room.
You could buy anti chew spray
Give him some live wires (230v) to chew and he will not do it again.
is he caged?
or does he run freely thru ur house?
just make a little room with foods and no wires or electricty.etc. it might teach him to stop
you could take its teeth out or kick it when it goes near the wires.
or maybe just put the wires out or reach
just watch him close tuck any wires up that u can and u can buy plastic coverving that will fit on top, its the rabbits nature , alot of the times they are just trying to push it cause its in thier way,i have had one chew and give herself a shock,, once we tucked the wires got the coverins it worked out good and if she tried i would stomp my foot on the floor cause to them it means danger, since they thump when they are scaredbeauty
You need to ';bunny proof'; the areas your rabbit has access to. block off what you can with furniture, then buy clear, flexible tubing, cut a slit down the length and wrap around any exposed wires. They sell tubing specifically for this at the pet store that supposedly also tastes bad as well.
Good luck! =)How can I keep my house rabbit chewing through all sorts of wires?
You need to Rabbit proof your house like you would with a toddler. Block off access to the areas which have wires and where you don't want him. My rabbit is currently indoors and I let him out for a run but only when I am there to watch him and can tell him to come away from certain areas or block them using say my washing basket so he can't get to anything.
try putting lemon juice or pepper on the wires to keep him from chewing.
eat him
I keep my rabbit confined to one room with wires out of her reach.
He should be caged most of the time and when he is unsupervised. But if you like to let him run around so he gets excersice, its a good idea to get a small animal play pen thing. If they dont sell them at your pet store you can make one out of fence wire.
You can get your electrician to chew-proof your wires. Hope it helps!
put duct tape all over the wires or just don't let him that room.
You could buy anti chew spray
Give him some live wires (230v) to chew and he will not do it again.
is he caged?
or does he run freely thru ur house?
just make a little room with foods and no wires or electricty.etc. it might teach him to stop
you could take its teeth out or kick it when it goes near the wires.
or maybe just put the wires out or reach
just watch him close tuck any wires up that u can and u can buy plastic coverving that will fit on top, its the rabbits nature , alot of the times they are just trying to push it cause its in thier way,i have had one chew and give herself a shock,, once we tucked the wires got the coverins it worked out good and if she tried i would stomp my foot on the floor cause to them it means danger, since they thump when they are scared
Rabbit shows in the UK - What do they look for in the pet section?
I noticed that at some rabbit shows such as Emley and Mirfield have pet sections. How are the rabbits judged, what are they judged on? You can't have breed standards because many people enter mixed breeds.Rabbit shows in the UK - What do they look for in the pet section?
they normally look at the coat of thr rabbit, what condition its in and whether it cares for you as in how it interacts with you Good Luck!!!Rabbit shows in the UK - What do they look for in the pet section?
Are you sure they show mixed breeds? If it is a serious show they won't show cross breeds. If it is a general bring your pet along and get a rosette coz it's cute then there is no standard. The judge chooses what they like.
they normally look at the coat of thr rabbit, what condition its in and whether it cares for you as in how it interacts with you Good Luck!!!Rabbit shows in the UK - What do they look for in the pet section?
Are you sure they show mixed breeds? If it is a serious show they won't show cross breeds. If it is a general bring your pet along and get a rosette coz it's cute then there is no standard. The judge chooses what they like.
Is it safe to take a rabbit on a holiday on a car?
Well...my rabbit is 3 years, a dwarf lop (brown) the cutest thing evaaa and i'm planning to go down south by car which is about 3 hours and i want to take the rabbit with us...is it safe for him? offcourse we will stop and taking him out of the car on the way. will he like vomit or die or anything?
if you've done this tell me all about it!Is it safe to take a rabbit on a holiday on a car?
Rabbits travel all the time for rabbit shows, your boy will be fine. Rabbits can not vomit, so your safe there. As long as your car isn't too hot then you should have no problems with him. I've taken 4 rabbits on a 5 hour car ride to a show, then drove back the next day and everyone was fine with no stops.Is it safe to take a rabbit on a holiday on a car?
He probably won't have a good time, but he'll probably survive.
THINGS TO KNOW ABOUT CAR TRAVEL
1. Rabbits cannot tolerate heat.
A Provide wet towels over cage with breeze and frozen water cartons to lie against if you have no air conditioning in hot weather.
B. Don't leave rabbit in parked car in the hottest part of the day while you are in a restaurant. You may have to get food-to-go, take food along and stop in shaded rest areas, or wait until early morning and late evening to stop to eat.
2. Rabbits do not like drafts.
Carriers should not be placed where AC/Heat blows directly on them.
3. Water bottles will often leak out all their water.
Rabbits tend to not drink while traveling. Water should be offered at all stops. Add Pedilyte to combat dehydration but be sure the rabbit will drink it. You may have to syringe/dropper feed water.
4. Rabbits may also not eat while traveling.
Offer favorite vegetables, pellets, and hay at all stops. Put some hay and pellets in carrier while traveling.
5. Try to establish some routine.
as to length of time in car each day, stopping times, feeding and exercise times
6. Strap down carriers
so they do not slide during sudden stops
I too am going to be travelling with my bunnies soon, a three hour trip also, I intend on taking a stop every hour and taking them out of their carrier to have a drink and a walk around (on leash) so they can go to the toilet and stretch their legs :)
Have a read of the site link I provided, there is some good info on there :)
if you've done this tell me all about it!Is it safe to take a rabbit on a holiday on a car?
Rabbits travel all the time for rabbit shows, your boy will be fine. Rabbits can not vomit, so your safe there. As long as your car isn't too hot then you should have no problems with him. I've taken 4 rabbits on a 5 hour car ride to a show, then drove back the next day and everyone was fine with no stops.Is it safe to take a rabbit on a holiday on a car?
He probably won't have a good time, but he'll probably survive.
THINGS TO KNOW ABOUT CAR TRAVEL
1. Rabbits cannot tolerate heat.
A Provide wet towels over cage with breeze and frozen water cartons to lie against if you have no air conditioning in hot weather.
B. Don't leave rabbit in parked car in the hottest part of the day while you are in a restaurant. You may have to get food-to-go, take food along and stop in shaded rest areas, or wait until early morning and late evening to stop to eat.
2. Rabbits do not like drafts.
Carriers should not be placed where AC/Heat blows directly on them.
3. Water bottles will often leak out all their water.
Rabbits tend to not drink while traveling. Water should be offered at all stops. Add Pedilyte to combat dehydration but be sure the rabbit will drink it. You may have to syringe/dropper feed water.
4. Rabbits may also not eat while traveling.
Offer favorite vegetables, pellets, and hay at all stops. Put some hay and pellets in carrier while traveling.
5. Try to establish some routine.
as to length of time in car each day, stopping times, feeding and exercise times
6. Strap down carriers
so they do not slide during sudden stops
I too am going to be travelling with my bunnies soon, a three hour trip also, I intend on taking a stop every hour and taking them out of their carrier to have a drink and a walk around (on leash) so they can go to the toilet and stretch their legs :)
Have a read of the site link I provided, there is some good info on there :)
Can you possibly potty train a rabbit?
And how?
Does anyone have a potty trained bunny?
What are some helpful tips?
I've heard to give them a liter box and put some of their poop in their but i've tried that with my past bunnies and its never really worked.. My house always ended up with rabbit poop and pee.
I know its possible! My Grandma told me she had a friend whose bunny walked around their house like a cat and always went to the bathroom in the liter box.Can you possibly potty train a rabbit?
Yes it is very easy to train a rabbit to use a litter box. I got a rabbit on Remembrance Day and in 5 days he was fully potty trained (except for the occasional odd poo). Just give it a couple of days to show you where he'd like to go potty (it's usually after the phase of randomly dropping bombs all over the cage floor) and put a box there filled with the litter. Hanging on the side of the cage I have a rack of timothy hay that he can only eat when he's in the box. Rabbits like to graze, pee, and poo at the same time, so the hay really helps. Whenever you find an odd poo, don't leave it on the cage floor. Pick it up and toss it in the litter box. Save a piece of material with your rabbit's urine on it (soiled newspaper, shavings) and put it in the box after you clean the litterbox to remind your rabbit where to go. Your rabbit will be litterbox trained and you'll be much happier in no time =]Can you possibly potty train a rabbit?
I found the easiest way to litter train my rabbits was to use Yesterdays new litter for cat and or rabbits place the pan where you rabbits seems to use as a corner toilet and put some timothy hay in the litter pan, rabbits will poop and eat in the same spot, after a few days start removing some of the hay until you have no hay anymore and the rabbit is using the litter pan, if you allow your rabbit to run around their cage for exercise I suggest have a litter pan for outside of the cage as well.
i had 2 bunnies, one actually died today unexpectedly... :( they were both litter trained they are just like cats, show them where the pan is and if they stray away just keep showing them. go to your local pet store and try to find animal plantes book on rabbits its great... mine runs around the house all the time, today like i said though i lost one so its just one now. you have to make sure its a non-stressful environment for them too or they will find places to go to the bathroom if they feel afraid. good luck
Yes, you can litterbox train a rabbit.
Put boxes in every corner of their set-up. When there is stuff on the floor of it you need to scoop it up and put it in the litterbox.
You will have to see which litterbox (which corner) they prefer.
My baby boy actually trained himself. I noticed that he kept going to the same spot and i left some newspaper there. He has been pooping/peeing there for over a yr now. He is free to roam everywhere 24/7.
Yes you can litter train a bunny, it's easy.
yup in a liter box show it wear to go and it'll be just like a cat
u can but i haven't had much luck.
Does anyone have a potty trained bunny?
What are some helpful tips?
I've heard to give them a liter box and put some of their poop in their but i've tried that with my past bunnies and its never really worked.. My house always ended up with rabbit poop and pee.
I know its possible! My Grandma told me she had a friend whose bunny walked around their house like a cat and always went to the bathroom in the liter box.Can you possibly potty train a rabbit?
Yes it is very easy to train a rabbit to use a litter box. I got a rabbit on Remembrance Day and in 5 days he was fully potty trained (except for the occasional odd poo). Just give it a couple of days to show you where he'd like to go potty (it's usually after the phase of randomly dropping bombs all over the cage floor) and put a box there filled with the litter. Hanging on the side of the cage I have a rack of timothy hay that he can only eat when he's in the box. Rabbits like to graze, pee, and poo at the same time, so the hay really helps. Whenever you find an odd poo, don't leave it on the cage floor. Pick it up and toss it in the litter box. Save a piece of material with your rabbit's urine on it (soiled newspaper, shavings) and put it in the box after you clean the litterbox to remind your rabbit where to go. Your rabbit will be litterbox trained and you'll be much happier in no time =]Can you possibly potty train a rabbit?
I found the easiest way to litter train my rabbits was to use Yesterdays new litter for cat and or rabbits place the pan where you rabbits seems to use as a corner toilet and put some timothy hay in the litter pan, rabbits will poop and eat in the same spot, after a few days start removing some of the hay until you have no hay anymore and the rabbit is using the litter pan, if you allow your rabbit to run around their cage for exercise I suggest have a litter pan for outside of the cage as well.
i had 2 bunnies, one actually died today unexpectedly... :( they were both litter trained they are just like cats, show them where the pan is and if they stray away just keep showing them. go to your local pet store and try to find animal plantes book on rabbits its great... mine runs around the house all the time, today like i said though i lost one so its just one now. you have to make sure its a non-stressful environment for them too or they will find places to go to the bathroom if they feel afraid. good luck
Yes, you can litterbox train a rabbit.
Put boxes in every corner of their set-up. When there is stuff on the floor of it you need to scoop it up and put it in the litterbox.
You will have to see which litterbox (which corner) they prefer.
My baby boy actually trained himself. I noticed that he kept going to the same spot and i left some newspaper there. He has been pooping/peeing there for over a yr now. He is free to roam everywhere 24/7.
Yes you can litter train a bunny, it's easy.
yup in a liter box show it wear to go and it'll be just like a cat
u can but i haven't had much luck.
Is it safe to give my rabbit and mice tap water?
All the care books I've read isn't specific. I've been buying purified water. So is it safe to give them tap water?Is it safe to give my rabbit and mice tap water?
I feed my rabbit tap water and hes always been fine. I'm guessing if some rats and mice live in sewers and drink sewage water then tap water will be fine for them too lol =)Is it safe to give my rabbit and mice tap water?
hey racehorsegirl1,I don't see any problem with tap water,stinkey,kitty,and Poo and even Huxley all seem to thrive on tapwater(Huxley is still alive by the way).Considering they drink rainwater,dew and river or stream water in the wild it can't be any worse.
yes. unless your mice and rabbits have special needs, tap water is perfectly fine for them. plus you'll be spending alot less money on purified water.
Good Luck
That should be no problem. Just make sure its not soft water. It has salt in it.
EWWW! you got mice in your house and your feeding them!! gross!
I think it will be ok for the rabbit.
Do you think they get ';purified'; water when they live in the wild?
Yeah. I gave my hamster tap water.
I feed my rabbit tap water and hes always been fine. I'm guessing if some rats and mice live in sewers and drink sewage water then tap water will be fine for them too lol =)Is it safe to give my rabbit and mice tap water?
hey racehorsegirl1,I don't see any problem with tap water,stinkey,kitty,and Poo and even Huxley all seem to thrive on tapwater(Huxley is still alive by the way).Considering they drink rainwater,dew and river or stream water in the wild it can't be any worse.
yes. unless your mice and rabbits have special needs, tap water is perfectly fine for them. plus you'll be spending alot less money on purified water.
Good Luck
That should be no problem. Just make sure its not soft water. It has salt in it.
EWWW! you got mice in your house and your feeding them!! gross!
I think it will be ok for the rabbit.
Do you think they get ';purified'; water when they live in the wild?
Yeah. I gave my hamster tap water.
I am new at getting a rabbit and if you have any tips they would be apprieciated.?
I don't know if there is a specific type of rabbit that is more family friendly then others. I don't have one yet but once i get everything it needs I will get a free one from the papers is that wise?I am new at getting a rabbit and if you have any tips they would be apprieciated.?
usually rabbits are not pure bred in pet stores but the rabbits in the paper are more likely going to be pure bred which are expensive! all rabbits are family friendly they are just good natured animals! beware of what rabbit you do decide to get as some rabbits can grow to the size of small dogs believe it or not!!! rex rabbits usually grow very big! i own a new zealand blue and a rex rabbit and they are both very good natured! i would search the internet google rabbit breeds and you'll get loads of info!
good luck!!I am new at getting a rabbit and if you have any tips they would be apprieciated.?
Good Qualities
-They are cute!
-They are so friendly.
-They do cute jumps/tricks
-They are reasonably cheap to look after
-They are reasonably easy to care for
Bad Qualities
-You have to clean their cage out every time it's dirty.
-You have to give them at LEAST an hour of exercise a day (outside of their hutch)
-They poo %26amp; wee ALOT
-They are expensive if you have to pay for them yourself (no parent help) and you have no pocket money.
-You may get sick of them when they're not cute anymore.
-They need alot of attention otherwise they will not like you and won't come to you when called or be friendly
-When they're small you have to handle them alot so they get to know you which can result in many scratches and bites, lots of peed on clothes as well
I think you should get a bunny if you really want to, but remember:
-DON'T breed them (it's really immature and bad for the bunnies.)
-Owning a pet (especially a bunny, who can live up to 12 years) is a LONG-TERM commitment. You cannot just give up your bunny when you feel like it.
-Think about when the rabbit is older, and not so cute and cuddly. Will you still love it?
If you have thought about these points and agreed, then get a furry companion!!! :D
Good luck!
it was thought that bigger rabbits were friendlier but many people have had success with smaller ones too.. (plus smaller ones are easier to handle)
the BEST way of telling how friendly a rabbit is.. is by testing it.. by holding it etc.. DO NOT take the first rabbit you see.. just because its cute.. you should try a few to be sure..
from the paper - is ok.. you can get honest info from the current owner - age.. etc.. and ask WHY ARE YOU GETTING RID OF IT?
but again - unless its right for you - dont take it.. will they sell you the cage???
or check your local shelter or SPCA.. good prices, honest info..
the WORST place to get a rabbit (or any pet) is a pet store.. they buy cheap and sell high... (you get low quality pet becuase they bought cheap) they are in the business of making money after all and will even lie to get a sale..
http://www.gomestic.com/Pets/Usual-Pets-鈥?/a>
The best website to visit about owning a pet rabbit is www.rabbit.org
It is hard to just give you all information on everything but if there are specific questions you would like answered you can email me.
I don't think it matters where you buy the rabbit although adopting a rabbit from the pound or animal shelter will save a life as they will be put down. When I was looking for my missing cat I rarely saw a rabbit though but you could go and have a look.
Ok, first of all, don't get a free one from the paper. They have diseases. Don't be a cheapskake. Buy one from a healthy pet store. But not PetSmart cuz they are cruelt to animals. I have a dwarf rabbit. You should start off with Dwarfs. Get a baby so that it can get used to you. Mine bites me a lot lol. watch out, they do it fats. Be kind and friendly. Rabbits are a good choice. =) hope that helps
I have a baby Mini Lop and an unknow breed. Two rabbits. Wonderful pets, but I'd have to say pepsi(the mini lop) is the friendliest and cutest.
Litter Training! AAAHHH!! Ok, to litter train my rabbits, I put alfalfa hay, on the side of their litter box, pooed anywhere in their cage besides the litter box, I picked up the poo(and washed my hands right after) and put it in the litter box. If you are ever holding your rabbit, and it pees or poos on you(which my young rabbit has done)pick it up and put it right on it's litter box. Hopefully that way she will realize that she needs to do her business in the LITTER BOX. Not on me lol
Hope I helped:)
usually rabbits are not pure bred in pet stores but the rabbits in the paper are more likely going to be pure bred which are expensive! all rabbits are family friendly they are just good natured animals! beware of what rabbit you do decide to get as some rabbits can grow to the size of small dogs believe it or not!!! rex rabbits usually grow very big! i own a new zealand blue and a rex rabbit and they are both very good natured! i would search the internet google rabbit breeds and you'll get loads of info!
good luck!!I am new at getting a rabbit and if you have any tips they would be apprieciated.?
Good Qualities
-They are cute!
-They are so friendly.
-They do cute jumps/tricks
-They are reasonably cheap to look after
-They are reasonably easy to care for
Bad Qualities
-You have to clean their cage out every time it's dirty.
-You have to give them at LEAST an hour of exercise a day (outside of their hutch)
-They poo %26amp; wee ALOT
-They are expensive if you have to pay for them yourself (no parent help) and you have no pocket money.
-You may get sick of them when they're not cute anymore.
-They need alot of attention otherwise they will not like you and won't come to you when called or be friendly
-When they're small you have to handle them alot so they get to know you which can result in many scratches and bites, lots of peed on clothes as well
I think you should get a bunny if you really want to, but remember:
-DON'T breed them (it's really immature and bad for the bunnies.)
-Owning a pet (especially a bunny, who can live up to 12 years) is a LONG-TERM commitment. You cannot just give up your bunny when you feel like it.
-Think about when the rabbit is older, and not so cute and cuddly. Will you still love it?
If you have thought about these points and agreed, then get a furry companion!!! :D
Good luck!
it was thought that bigger rabbits were friendlier but many people have had success with smaller ones too.. (plus smaller ones are easier to handle)
the BEST way of telling how friendly a rabbit is.. is by testing it.. by holding it etc.. DO NOT take the first rabbit you see.. just because its cute.. you should try a few to be sure..
from the paper - is ok.. you can get honest info from the current owner - age.. etc.. and ask WHY ARE YOU GETTING RID OF IT?
but again - unless its right for you - dont take it.. will they sell you the cage???
or check your local shelter or SPCA.. good prices, honest info..
the WORST place to get a rabbit (or any pet) is a pet store.. they buy cheap and sell high... (you get low quality pet becuase they bought cheap) they are in the business of making money after all and will even lie to get a sale..
http://www.gomestic.com/Pets/Usual-Pets-鈥?/a>
The best website to visit about owning a pet rabbit is www.rabbit.org
It is hard to just give you all information on everything but if there are specific questions you would like answered you can email me.
I don't think it matters where you buy the rabbit although adopting a rabbit from the pound or animal shelter will save a life as they will be put down. When I was looking for my missing cat I rarely saw a rabbit though but you could go and have a look.
Ok, first of all, don't get a free one from the paper. They have diseases. Don't be a cheapskake. Buy one from a healthy pet store. But not PetSmart cuz they are cruelt to animals. I have a dwarf rabbit. You should start off with Dwarfs. Get a baby so that it can get used to you. Mine bites me a lot lol. watch out, they do it fats. Be kind and friendly. Rabbits are a good choice. =) hope that helps
I have a baby Mini Lop and an unknow breed. Two rabbits. Wonderful pets, but I'd have to say pepsi(the mini lop) is the friendliest and cutest.
Litter Training! AAAHHH!! Ok, to litter train my rabbits, I put alfalfa hay, on the side of their litter box, pooed anywhere in their cage besides the litter box, I picked up the poo(and washed my hands right after) and put it in the litter box. If you are ever holding your rabbit, and it pees or poos on you(which my young rabbit has done)pick it up and put it right on it's litter box. Hopefully that way she will realize that she needs to do her business in the LITTER BOX. Not on me lol
Hope I helped:)
Does anyone know how to tell rabbit breeds?
i don't know what breeds my rabbits are and i would like to enter them in shows can you help me?Does anyone know how to tell rabbit breeds?
Why not check out www.arba.net?
That is the officical site for rabbit breeders and they have information on breeds and shows.
good luck.Does anyone know how to tell rabbit breeds?
here's a website that might help u
http://www.petpeoplesplace.com/resources鈥?/a>
U have males,females,loop ears, and many more to save a vet bill go the the lib. or look it up on the comp. and get the pictures and compare you'll be surprised at all the breeds. sorry,lol.
no
well u can ask ur vet or look in a book or even ask a rabbit expert in your area
You probably won't be able to show them if you don't have a pedigree of them. Where did you get them? They may be mixed breeds. You might want to check out the arba for pictures and more information. www.arba.netbeauty
Why not check out www.arba.net?
That is the officical site for rabbit breeders and they have information on breeds and shows.
good luck.Does anyone know how to tell rabbit breeds?
here's a website that might help u
http://www.petpeoplesplace.com/resources鈥?/a>
U have males,females,loop ears, and many more to save a vet bill go the the lib. or look it up on the comp. and get the pictures and compare you'll be surprised at all the breeds. sorry,lol.
no
well u can ask ur vet or look in a book or even ask a rabbit expert in your area
You probably won't be able to show them if you don't have a pedigree of them. Where did you get them? They may be mixed breeds. You might want to check out the arba for pictures and more information. www.arba.net
How do I make my pet Rabbit happy?
She has been played with less because of how busy I am with school, and she has become completely territorial and she will attack and bite you if you reach in her cage. I feel so bad! When I hold her now I feel like she is uncomfortable and scared. How do I make her a happy bunny? Thanks!How do I make my pet Rabbit happy?
Spay her. In almost all cases it will eliminate territorial aggression like you are describing and will make her a much better pet. It will also double her potential average lifespan, from 4-5 years to 8-10 years. Then you can find a neutered male as a companion for her. Most rabbits will enjoy the company of another altered companion and it will give her a source of interaction when you aren't there. Information on bonding two rabbits as well as other behavioral advice, can be found here: http://www.rabbit.org/behavior/index.htm鈥?/a>How do I make my pet Rabbit happy?
You can maybe try getting her a bigger cage and some interactive toys and chew toys. Maybe even getting her a harness and taking her for walks in the yard. But female rabbits usually do become aggressive and territorial when they reach puberty, because they feel they need to compete for nesting places. You could also try getting her fixed, that may calm her down some. If you or someone you know is on medicaid, you can get her fixed for fairly cheap, just be sure to ask the vet clinic if they accept maddie's fund and if it's applicable to rabbits. I know it works for cats and dogs (they are $10 and $20 respectively)
Is she neutered? Her hormones might be acting up.
If she is neutered, is there any way you can do homework in the same room she's in? I know it's not necessarily the same as playing with her, but she might just crave company.
Another thing is, try not to reach into her cage unless you have made it abundantly clear that you are coming. Talk to her, open the cage. Pet her head with one hand, and do whatever you have to do with the other.
As for holding her, some rabbits just don't like to be held. There's often no way to convince a rabbit that it's fun to be held, so you might want to stop trying.
Does she get time out of her cage? Rabbits need exercise to stay happy and healthy.
Good luck to you!
bunnies are mostly happy with a hutch kept outside the house which gives them ample space hop and jump around.do keep your rabbit in a big enough cage which is dark and cozy .Also apply anti-termite coating on the cage.u can have more info about cages on the site listed below
I would make sure she always has lots of food and water.
Give her treats (I recomend Lettuce,baby carrots,and apple slices.)
Try to pick her up.....if she feels comfortable with you again she will act nicer.
If you can pick her up scratch behind her ears.
Get them a warm bed like a baby blanket.
Those all work when I take care of other people's bunnys. =]
Have you got any rabbit, 1 or 2 or more
If you have one, please give it one more
Give them Soluble Vitamix and keep them warm and enough food for them.
Spay her. In almost all cases it will eliminate territorial aggression like you are describing and will make her a much better pet. It will also double her potential average lifespan, from 4-5 years to 8-10 years. Then you can find a neutered male as a companion for her. Most rabbits will enjoy the company of another altered companion and it will give her a source of interaction when you aren't there. Information on bonding two rabbits as well as other behavioral advice, can be found here: http://www.rabbit.org/behavior/index.htm鈥?/a>How do I make my pet Rabbit happy?
You can maybe try getting her a bigger cage and some interactive toys and chew toys. Maybe even getting her a harness and taking her for walks in the yard. But female rabbits usually do become aggressive and territorial when they reach puberty, because they feel they need to compete for nesting places. You could also try getting her fixed, that may calm her down some. If you or someone you know is on medicaid, you can get her fixed for fairly cheap, just be sure to ask the vet clinic if they accept maddie's fund and if it's applicable to rabbits. I know it works for cats and dogs (they are $10 and $20 respectively)
Is she neutered? Her hormones might be acting up.
If she is neutered, is there any way you can do homework in the same room she's in? I know it's not necessarily the same as playing with her, but she might just crave company.
Another thing is, try not to reach into her cage unless you have made it abundantly clear that you are coming. Talk to her, open the cage. Pet her head with one hand, and do whatever you have to do with the other.
As for holding her, some rabbits just don't like to be held. There's often no way to convince a rabbit that it's fun to be held, so you might want to stop trying.
Does she get time out of her cage? Rabbits need exercise to stay happy and healthy.
Good luck to you!
bunnies are mostly happy with a hutch kept outside the house which gives them ample space hop and jump around.do keep your rabbit in a big enough cage which is dark and cozy .Also apply anti-termite coating on the cage.u can have more info about cages on the site listed below
I would make sure she always has lots of food and water.
Give her treats (I recomend Lettuce,baby carrots,and apple slices.)
Try to pick her up.....if she feels comfortable with you again she will act nicer.
If you can pick her up scratch behind her ears.
Get them a warm bed like a baby blanket.
Those all work when I take care of other people's bunnys. =]
Have you got any rabbit, 1 or 2 or more
If you have one, please give it one more
Give them Soluble Vitamix and keep them warm and enough food for them.
Is it impossible to keep a rabbit cage clean?
Other than cleaning it everyday? My rabbit is litter box trained completely outside its cage and only does the territorial poops inside the cage, but there are a TON of them and he gets it everywhere and his pee gets onto them sometimes.Is it impossible to keep a rabbit cage clean?
My rabbits are litter box trained inside and outside their area (puppy playpen). I spot clean mostly torn up cardboard and hay they are relatively clean. My newest bunny tips her water over a lot still so she is getting a clamped on bowl for that.Is it impossible to keep a rabbit cage clean?
No. Rabbits will poop and pee, just the way life is. If the smell is bothering you there are products like odorz out that you can put in the bottom of the cage and products you can put in their water to reduce the smell.
rabbit cages/litter boxes really have to be cleaned everyday because they go to the bathroom so much, there really isn't much you can do about it, it's part of owning a rabbit. Plus it's just more sanitary for them as well if you clean it every day. However do you have his litter box inside his cage as well? because it sounds like that isn't just territorial poops if there is a ton of them. When you litter train a rabbit they should be using the box both inside and outside of the cage.
I clean weekly.
My rabbit loves to make a mess but he does totally use his litter tray.
However he has an inside hutch with a run not a cage.
If your rabbit is not always using his litter tray you should place the feces in the litter tray to make him understand that he has to use only that.
Having said that, rabbits in cages are less likely to use a litter tray if they are caged at night and let out in the day.
You could try creating a small ';always accessible'; run which has a litter box in it. Then your rabbit would see the difference between a place to sleep, a litter box and a place to play.
lol I agree my rabbit just refuses to keep her cage clean, even for two days! She's litter trained too. But she only doesn't go in the litter box when it's full or if she has diarrhea (doesn't want to get her fur nasty I guess) lol
I clean every day. Otherwise, I think it smells (even though visitors tell me it doesn't, I'm quite sensitive). If your rabbit is pooing outside the litter box in the cage in larger quantities, your box is likely too small. I have not had a rabbit, once litter trained, that would leave more than a couple poos scattered about a day.
My rabbits are litter box trained inside and outside their area (puppy playpen). I spot clean mostly torn up cardboard and hay they are relatively clean. My newest bunny tips her water over a lot still so she is getting a clamped on bowl for that.Is it impossible to keep a rabbit cage clean?
No. Rabbits will poop and pee, just the way life is. If the smell is bothering you there are products like odorz out that you can put in the bottom of the cage and products you can put in their water to reduce the smell.
rabbit cages/litter boxes really have to be cleaned everyday because they go to the bathroom so much, there really isn't much you can do about it, it's part of owning a rabbit. Plus it's just more sanitary for them as well if you clean it every day. However do you have his litter box inside his cage as well? because it sounds like that isn't just territorial poops if there is a ton of them. When you litter train a rabbit they should be using the box both inside and outside of the cage.
I clean weekly.
My rabbit loves to make a mess but he does totally use his litter tray.
However he has an inside hutch with a run not a cage.
If your rabbit is not always using his litter tray you should place the feces in the litter tray to make him understand that he has to use only that.
Having said that, rabbits in cages are less likely to use a litter tray if they are caged at night and let out in the day.
You could try creating a small ';always accessible'; run which has a litter box in it. Then your rabbit would see the difference between a place to sleep, a litter box and a place to play.
lol I agree my rabbit just refuses to keep her cage clean, even for two days! She's litter trained too. But she only doesn't go in the litter box when it's full or if she has diarrhea (doesn't want to get her fur nasty I guess) lol
I clean every day. Otherwise, I think it smells (even though visitors tell me it doesn't, I'm quite sensitive). If your rabbit is pooing outside the litter box in the cage in larger quantities, your box is likely too small. I have not had a rabbit, once litter trained, that would leave more than a couple poos scattered about a day.
How far along is my pregnant rabbit?
My rabbit has started pulling her fur out to make a nest, how far along is she in her pregnancy?How far along is my pregnant rabbit?
It means you will probley be seeing some babie rabbits VERY soon. Within a week. When they start pulling hair out, they are making a protective nest in order to have their babies. You will most likely see babies VERY soon!!
Have fun and Merry Christmas!How far along is my pregnant rabbit?
Most of our rabbits usually have thier babies about 24 hours after pulling hair.
She is probabl about that middle maybe a bit more towards the end but you can only really tell by how big her stomach is. But the again her stomach will be bigger if she has more babies.
It means you will probley be seeing some babie rabbits VERY soon. Within a week. When they start pulling hair out, they are making a protective nest in order to have their babies. You will most likely see babies VERY soon!!
Have fun and Merry Christmas!How far along is my pregnant rabbit?
Most of our rabbits usually have thier babies about 24 hours after pulling hair.
She is probabl about that middle maybe a bit more towards the end but you can only really tell by how big her stomach is. But the again her stomach will be bigger if she has more babies.
So how did you take the news when the doctor said that the rabbit died?
Fun question geared more for those who understand about the rabbit dieing. How did you take the news? Now, some 20 or 30 years later, do you laugh at those days hearing from your doctor that the rabbit died.So how did you take the news when the doctor said that the rabbit died?
We were so excited.
We'd been married 9 years and had given up.....and then the rabbit died.So how did you take the news when the doctor said that the rabbit died?
I had never heard that expression, when I did hear it the first time. I
had to ask my doctor what he meant. After his explanation, I laughed
thinking he was making a joke. Finally he said, ';who's the doctor here? The rabbit died from the injection.'; So when it really sunk in,
I was almost in shock. My husband had been married before, and they
didn't have children. And it took us only two and a half months before
I got pregnant. And we did not plan to have any children. Neither of us
wanted any. It made a major change in our relationship from then on.
It was equally hard to accept, when baby number two was on the
way. As I had been on the pill prior to my pregnancy. So I learned
that the pill was not 100% for sure.
I didn't believe they really killed the rabbit. I mean I new about them injecting it's ovaries with something, but I thought that they did a little ';rabbit surgery'; to go back in a look. In a sense, I was glad I was pregnant b/c I would have hated to think that they killed a rabbit for nothing. I was 18 y.o. I was scared if I was that naive, then what type of mother would I make.
I had been living with her father for about a year %26amp; we were planning to get married anyway, so I was fine with it. I knew before I got the official news. I don't understand how women can't know they're pregnant.
and this was after the rabbit test. she's 30.
i didnt know what it mean
That was 33 years ago, and it was wonderful news. Now, that little girl is having a baby of her own, so its good news over again.
When the test was positive I laugh and told him he was wrong. They gave me vitamins and gave me a time to show up next month. By the time the third months came along I had to consed I was with baby. lol
It was okay then at 22.
As long as when I go now she doesn't say it. Lol:)
Who wants to buy Pampers and Depends? And trust me I would need the Depends if the rabbit died.
I took it well, my husband at the time, didn't take the news well. tsk tsk Apparently he really liked rabbits.
It was great news for me 40yrs ago, as that was what we were wanting.
thats animal cruelty! y didnt the people just wait till it became obvious! i hope no bunnies died for me b4 i was born! that is just so barbaric !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I was extremely thrilled %26amp; so was my husband, but I felt sad for the rabbit. That was 41 years ago.
i just said. (silly wabbit)
We both were crying......happy about the up-coming event, but so sad for the rabbit.
I was dumbfounded.....both times! Didn't go for thirds!
Just went home and heated up the skillet
We were so excited.
We'd been married 9 years and had given up.....and then the rabbit died.So how did you take the news when the doctor said that the rabbit died?
I had never heard that expression, when I did hear it the first time. I
had to ask my doctor what he meant. After his explanation, I laughed
thinking he was making a joke. Finally he said, ';who's the doctor here? The rabbit died from the injection.'; So when it really sunk in,
I was almost in shock. My husband had been married before, and they
didn't have children. And it took us only two and a half months before
I got pregnant. And we did not plan to have any children. Neither of us
wanted any. It made a major change in our relationship from then on.
It was equally hard to accept, when baby number two was on the
way. As I had been on the pill prior to my pregnancy. So I learned
that the pill was not 100% for sure.
I didn't believe they really killed the rabbit. I mean I new about them injecting it's ovaries with something, but I thought that they did a little ';rabbit surgery'; to go back in a look. In a sense, I was glad I was pregnant b/c I would have hated to think that they killed a rabbit for nothing. I was 18 y.o. I was scared if I was that naive, then what type of mother would I make.
I had been living with her father for about a year %26amp; we were planning to get married anyway, so I was fine with it. I knew before I got the official news. I don't understand how women can't know they're pregnant.
and this was after the rabbit test. she's 30.
i didnt know what it mean
That was 33 years ago, and it was wonderful news. Now, that little girl is having a baby of her own, so its good news over again.
When the test was positive I laugh and told him he was wrong. They gave me vitamins and gave me a time to show up next month. By the time the third months came along I had to consed I was with baby. lol
It was okay then at 22.
As long as when I go now she doesn't say it. Lol:)
Who wants to buy Pampers and Depends? And trust me I would need the Depends if the rabbit died.
I took it well, my husband at the time, didn't take the news well. tsk tsk Apparently he really liked rabbits.
It was great news for me 40yrs ago, as that was what we were wanting.
thats animal cruelty! y didnt the people just wait till it became obvious! i hope no bunnies died for me b4 i was born! that is just so barbaric !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I was extremely thrilled %26amp; so was my husband, but I felt sad for the rabbit. That was 41 years ago.
i just said. (silly wabbit)
We both were crying......happy about the up-coming event, but so sad for the rabbit.
I was dumbfounded.....both times! Didn't go for thirds!
Just went home and heated up the skillet
How do you stop a pet rabbit from being violent?
and i mean really violent
, like , nearly had my hand offHow do you stop a pet rabbit from being violent?
Try playing with it more to keep it calm and not so mean, or if it is only one then get it a friend and that should help him.How do you stop a pet rabbit from being violent?
Have them neutered and do not reach into their territory.
i had the same thing he kept goin after my kids in the end he had to go for a long sleep
Get it spayed/neutered
, like , nearly had my hand offHow do you stop a pet rabbit from being violent?
Try playing with it more to keep it calm and not so mean, or if it is only one then get it a friend and that should help him.How do you stop a pet rabbit from being violent?
Have them neutered and do not reach into their territory.
i had the same thing he kept goin after my kids in the end he had to go for a long sleep
Get it spayed/neutered
What do i do if my rabbit pees on carpet?
My rabbit really in not allowed in doors unless she has her pen and a protecter underneath, but i always love to see her run around the whole house. We just got our carpets cleaned so the no rabbits in the house rule is even more strict! We can't go out to buy thing really cuz my parents already think i don't bring in the rabbits. i do have white vinegar but is there anything else? She is a 9 month old rabbit...=]
Thanks!What do i do if my rabbit pees on carpet?
Litter train your bunny:
My bunny is never put in her cage. EVER.
This is something I posted on another question ( i keep doing this, lol ) which was about whether or not a rabbit could be litter trained. hope it helps.
I have a bunny and she is incredibly smart. All you have to do is make sure it gets used to littering in one place.
For example leave alot of it's droppings in the litter box so that it can head there when it needs to.
He/She just needs to get used to it. I think its best to leave your rabbit in its cage for a while because that will be the only place the rabbit can ';go';.
It'll be easier if the rabbit knows to go back in the cage to poop or pee so you can save money on litter boxes. My bunny has been doing that for the past year and her father taught himself how to litter in its cage.
And this was also in another question which was random advice on having a rabbit live indoors with you (and more which you probably already know):
Well I've had bunnies before and I still do. But first I have to warn you, bunnies LOVE to chew on wires and books and all those things that make their ever growing teeth less itchy. And it is best to let your rabbit around the house.
But they are also very curious animals and love to crawl in small and dirty spaces. If you want more tips like.
You should feed it only twice a day at the exact same time once in the morning the other in the evening. like everyday six am and six pm. And you should make sure your bunny gets used to where he/she pees and poops first before you always let him/her out.
Always change the water everyday and all that other stuff.
If you give your rabbit a short simple name and always call it by its name it'll learn to come to you.What do i do if my rabbit pees on carpet?
my rabbit got used to using her litter box and is very good with it now. Even if I let her out to run she goes back to her litter box if she needs to pee. It's most important to watch your bunny to make sure she isn't doing anything and if she does pee, you can clean it up right away so it won't soak. Vinegar and water work, but then you get the vinegar smell. You can also buy a carpet cleaner spray like Resolve or something if there is a stain.
Rabbits will naturally use a litter box. Put the pine litter stuff in there(they make it just for rabbits) and your little bunny will head there automatically once you show her where it is once.beauty
Thanks!What do i do if my rabbit pees on carpet?
Litter train your bunny:
My bunny is never put in her cage. EVER.
This is something I posted on another question ( i keep doing this, lol ) which was about whether or not a rabbit could be litter trained. hope it helps.
I have a bunny and she is incredibly smart. All you have to do is make sure it gets used to littering in one place.
For example leave alot of it's droppings in the litter box so that it can head there when it needs to.
He/She just needs to get used to it. I think its best to leave your rabbit in its cage for a while because that will be the only place the rabbit can ';go';.
It'll be easier if the rabbit knows to go back in the cage to poop or pee so you can save money on litter boxes. My bunny has been doing that for the past year and her father taught himself how to litter in its cage.
And this was also in another question which was random advice on having a rabbit live indoors with you (and more which you probably already know):
Well I've had bunnies before and I still do. But first I have to warn you, bunnies LOVE to chew on wires and books and all those things that make their ever growing teeth less itchy. And it is best to let your rabbit around the house.
But they are also very curious animals and love to crawl in small and dirty spaces. If you want more tips like.
You should feed it only twice a day at the exact same time once in the morning the other in the evening. like everyday six am and six pm. And you should make sure your bunny gets used to where he/she pees and poops first before you always let him/her out.
Always change the water everyday and all that other stuff.
If you give your rabbit a short simple name and always call it by its name it'll learn to come to you.What do i do if my rabbit pees on carpet?
my rabbit got used to using her litter box and is very good with it now. Even if I let her out to run she goes back to her litter box if she needs to pee. It's most important to watch your bunny to make sure she isn't doing anything and if she does pee, you can clean it up right away so it won't soak. Vinegar and water work, but then you get the vinegar smell. You can also buy a carpet cleaner spray like Resolve or something if there is a stain.
Rabbits will naturally use a litter box. Put the pine litter stuff in there(they make it just for rabbits) and your little bunny will head there automatically once you show her where it is once.
Is it safe to put a rabbit hutch on my deck?
Or will my rabbit get too cold? It's the only way I can think of to keep my rabbit outside of the house and safe from dogs/cats while I'm away from the house. I'd take it inside when I am at home but otherwise the balcony from the dining room seems a good option...Is it safe to put a rabbit hutch on my deck?
Depends on what you mean by ';hutch';? Is this a rabbit hutch with an enclosed, insulated nest box, or just a wire cage with a litter pan?
Bunnies have fur, they can live outdoors in the cold in most areas, with proper housing.
I would be more concerned about heat, direct sunlight, and storms. And the risk of the deck, itself.Is it safe to put a rabbit hutch on my deck?
I would opt for the balcony as it sounds more safe from predators. Do you have a garage? We keep our bunny's cage out there and let him run around wth house when the cats are locked up and the dogs are outside. It's probably the safest bet if you don't want to keep him in the house. Rabbits are built to withstand cold, but use some discretion. If you would be freezing walking outside then it is not ok to leave your rabbit out there. Between 50-70 degrees is pretty comfortable for them.
I wouldn't recommend leaving your rabbit outside. Here is why. http://www.rabbit.org/faq/sections/outdo鈥?/a>
That's not the best situation, but it might work temporarily since the weather is not cold and it would be in the shade.
I am still somewhat concerned though.
I raise my rabbits outside, but they have a roof over them and I keep them in the shade. Also in the winter, they are enclosed on three sides to keep out a draft of wind.
In summer, rabbit's have to be protected from the sun and heat. So, it's best to place a rabbit hutch in a nice shady spot under a tree. They also need protected from the rain with a good roof. If they get wet during a rainstorm and the cold wind from rainstorm hits them, they can get pneumonia.
In the winter, rabbits can take the cold very well. Actually, they can take it all the way down to about -10F. The only breed you might want to pull inside sooner are English Lops due to their long ears. However, rabbits cannot take a cold wind draft. A cold draft of wind can very easily give a rabbit pneumonia. Pneumonia will kill a rabbit in 1-2 days or so or even a matter of hours. As long as the rabbit has 3 of the 4 sides of the cage enclosed, you don't really have to worry about a draft of wind.
Another thing you have to think about is whether your rabbit is protected from any loose neighborhood dogs or any raccoons that might be roaming about. Loose neighborhood dogs and raccoons can kill a rabbit in a heartbeat.
Depends on where you live.
Generally it's okay (though inside is preferable) in the summer provided there's adequate shade and it's got plenty of water. Bring it in at night for sure.
However, you have to make sure the litter tray is emptied EVERY DAY if it's outside. If flies lay eggs in the feces, your bunny can become infested with maggots and it's not a pretty sight. (I'm serious, it happened to my friend's rabbit, and it was very tragic.)
Best of luck
Depends on what you mean by ';hutch';? Is this a rabbit hutch with an enclosed, insulated nest box, or just a wire cage with a litter pan?
Bunnies have fur, they can live outdoors in the cold in most areas, with proper housing.
I would be more concerned about heat, direct sunlight, and storms. And the risk of the deck, itself.Is it safe to put a rabbit hutch on my deck?
I would opt for the balcony as it sounds more safe from predators. Do you have a garage? We keep our bunny's cage out there and let him run around wth house when the cats are locked up and the dogs are outside. It's probably the safest bet if you don't want to keep him in the house. Rabbits are built to withstand cold, but use some discretion. If you would be freezing walking outside then it is not ok to leave your rabbit out there. Between 50-70 degrees is pretty comfortable for them.
I wouldn't recommend leaving your rabbit outside. Here is why. http://www.rabbit.org/faq/sections/outdo鈥?/a>
That's not the best situation, but it might work temporarily since the weather is not cold and it would be in the shade.
I am still somewhat concerned though.
I raise my rabbits outside, but they have a roof over them and I keep them in the shade. Also in the winter, they are enclosed on three sides to keep out a draft of wind.
In summer, rabbit's have to be protected from the sun and heat. So, it's best to place a rabbit hutch in a nice shady spot under a tree. They also need protected from the rain with a good roof. If they get wet during a rainstorm and the cold wind from rainstorm hits them, they can get pneumonia.
In the winter, rabbits can take the cold very well. Actually, they can take it all the way down to about -10F. The only breed you might want to pull inside sooner are English Lops due to their long ears. However, rabbits cannot take a cold wind draft. A cold draft of wind can very easily give a rabbit pneumonia. Pneumonia will kill a rabbit in 1-2 days or so or even a matter of hours. As long as the rabbit has 3 of the 4 sides of the cage enclosed, you don't really have to worry about a draft of wind.
Another thing you have to think about is whether your rabbit is protected from any loose neighborhood dogs or any raccoons that might be roaming about. Loose neighborhood dogs and raccoons can kill a rabbit in a heartbeat.
Depends on where you live.
Generally it's okay (though inside is preferable) in the summer provided there's adequate shade and it's got plenty of water. Bring it in at night for sure.
However, you have to make sure the litter tray is emptied EVERY DAY if it's outside. If flies lay eggs in the feces, your bunny can become infested with maggots and it's not a pretty sight. (I'm serious, it happened to my friend's rabbit, and it was very tragic.)
Best of luck
How do I encourage a wild rabbit to move her nest?
I have a small barn and for the past week I've been cleaning out the stalls (They are bedded w/ hay and have outside access). My goats have been locked outside and apparently this small window of time as given a wild rabbit ample opportunity to build a nest and have babies INSIDE my barn. These babies can't stay here. I found one dead after being stepped on by one of my goats. How can I encourage the mother to move the nest or can I move the nest myself? (I've read online up to 10 feet away, which is fine, I could put them on the other side of the fence (but then how do I alert the mother to their location). I'm a ';let nature take it's course'; type of person and hand feeding them is not a possiblity, please keep that in mind when you answer. But, I'd still like to give these guys as much of an advantage as I can. Also, I need to get all the hay cleaned out of the barn ASAP (Saturday afternoon at the latest), so they can't stay there much longer! Thanks in Advance!How do I encourage a wild rabbit to move her nest?
Ok, the mother would not eat them. These are rabbits, not wild dogs! If you have a shovel, I would suggest moving them perhaps half way to the point where it would be safe. Use the shovel to pick up the babies, nest and all. Rabbits don't have that nose just to look cute while wiggling it! She'll smell her babies and as long as you're not in the area, she should return to them. Keep them in a semi sheltered area when you move them though. If the momma rabbit feels they aren't safe, she may abandon them in which case you'll have to call animal control, or she may move them back where they were, in which case you would have to move them all at once to your preferred location and let the chips fall where they may.How do I encourage a wild rabbit to move her nest?
http://www.rabbit.org/faq/sections/orphan.html
Leaving them alone until they leave on their own would be ideal, but as you have stated this is not an option.
You would have to call a wildlife rehabilitator for advice, or to take them to be hand reared. If the babies are moved, and the mother smells human scent on them she will either eat them or abandon them.
Good luck.
leave them
dont touch them
and put a small fence around them. something with holes like chicken wire.
just wait for the rabbits to grow up that is only a few weeks
if you touch the babies the mother may reject them and they will die for sure
just put some boxes or something in front of the nest so that the goats cant get there for now
Um.. you really can't do that. Could you move the goats until the little ones are old enough to go off on their own?
Leave them alone. Moving just does more harm. They'll be gone in a few days anyway.
Leave the wild in the wild.
Ok, the mother would not eat them. These are rabbits, not wild dogs! If you have a shovel, I would suggest moving them perhaps half way to the point where it would be safe. Use the shovel to pick up the babies, nest and all. Rabbits don't have that nose just to look cute while wiggling it! She'll smell her babies and as long as you're not in the area, she should return to them. Keep them in a semi sheltered area when you move them though. If the momma rabbit feels they aren't safe, she may abandon them in which case you'll have to call animal control, or she may move them back where they were, in which case you would have to move them all at once to your preferred location and let the chips fall where they may.How do I encourage a wild rabbit to move her nest?
http://www.rabbit.org/faq/sections/orphan.html
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Leaving them alone until they leave on their own would be ideal, but as you have stated this is not an option.
You would have to call a wildlife rehabilitator for advice, or to take them to be hand reared. If the babies are moved, and the mother smells human scent on them she will either eat them or abandon them.
Good luck.
leave them
dont touch them
and put a small fence around them. something with holes like chicken wire.
just wait for the rabbits to grow up that is only a few weeks
if you touch the babies the mother may reject them and they will die for sure
just put some boxes or something in front of the nest so that the goats cant get there for now
Um.. you really can't do that. Could you move the goats until the little ones are old enough to go off on their own?
Leave them alone. Moving just does more harm. They'll be gone in a few days anyway.
Leave the wild in the wild.
How can I bond with my Rabbit ?
I have a 2 year old lion headed dwarf lop bunny, hes a house rabbit . He was always my pal before he got neuterd about six months ago. Now he connects with my girlfriend but seems kind of distant to me. He sprints and hides when I enter the room and if I try to pet him he digs at me, nudges me away or sometimes nips me. Apart from the obvious reason why he may be pissed at me I dont know why hes not my pal anymore .How can I bond with my Rabbit ?
one word: Treats.
bunnies are simple minded critters. you can always get them to be happy to see you if they associate you with a special treat. i kept outdoor rabbits as a child and they didn't care much for people. they would rather hang out in the back of their large hutches cuddled up in their bedding than bother with us kids.... that is until spring came and i was holding the first of the red ripe strawberries!
while you can never withhold the foods an animal needs for good nutrition, you can keep a extra special treat that he only gets from you. for me and my bunnies it was strawberries, yogurt drops, and other sweet things they didn't get in their regular diet. he'll catch on pretty quick that he only gets those things from you and soon, instead of avoiding you and pushing you away, he'll be seeking you out and digging through your pockets!
good luck!How can I bond with my Rabbit ?
docktape
well get another rabbit and make him jelous,he'll soon be running back to you.
try getting a new set of bells, at this time of year i suggest jingle bells
he may be in heat..........
I've heard rabbits prefer the gentler voiced girls to men.. and I'm making no reference to rampant..
superglue
My Girlfriend had rampant rabbit. She bonded very well with that.
Go to an adult web site to find out about bondage clubs
Show him the Casserole dish.
you cut of his 'nuts' and you wonder why!!!!!!!
He is just pissed off, like you said.He has taken to your girlfriend because she did not get him hurt.Don't force yourself on him. Talk gently to him. Tell him you are sorry but had to do it. Give him treats.He may eventually even take them from you again but let him see you leave them in his cage. Only apoligize once. Eventually, he will forgive you and become friends again.Have your girlfriend kinda stay away from him so he knows he doesn't really have anyone else.She can still see him and speak to him but he needs his time for you if he wants to be held and loved on.
How would you feel about someone who was instrumental in removing your testicles ?. Give him time, he might forgive you.
eat him
there is no bond closer than that of consumption of the flesh of another
i dont know
SUPERGLUE....
Tell him to hop it!
OK, wow I have a really dirty mind because I thought you were talking about the other ';rabbit'; that is popular with the ladies....
Anyway, just keep playing with him, it may just be a weird phase.
hes probably pissed at you however maybe your holding him too much bcause when i hold my rabbit he scratches me alot, or maybe hes just trying to play around with you .
Just start by giving him a treat everyday. And soon he'll know your gonna give him a treat so he'll come up to you for the treat and slowly start petting him while you give him the treats. Every day just get closer to him and pet him more. Talk to him nice and softly too to him. And eventually he will love ya! I've never had this problem with my bunny. My bunny loves me to death. He lets me hold him like a baby and he falls asleep in my arms its so cute. Hes a lop eared bunny too. Good luck and hope I helped somewhat.
he probably is annoyed and recognizes ure smell, hold him gently and show him u dont want to hurt him
I agree with jordon r on this ,but one thing I do ,I have an outdoor lop I ware the same shoes outside all the time and he seem to smell the scent ,he runs around me and follows me round the garden but he only lets me stroke him when he wants to on his terms as I say when he wants to play he circles me until I play his game
industrial super glue
when you go to the rabbit try to act like your in a very good mood and feed him take care and try and bond hope it helps i know that this is nt good advice
one word: Treats.
bunnies are simple minded critters. you can always get them to be happy to see you if they associate you with a special treat. i kept outdoor rabbits as a child and they didn't care much for people. they would rather hang out in the back of their large hutches cuddled up in their bedding than bother with us kids.... that is until spring came and i was holding the first of the red ripe strawberries!
while you can never withhold the foods an animal needs for good nutrition, you can keep a extra special treat that he only gets from you. for me and my bunnies it was strawberries, yogurt drops, and other sweet things they didn't get in their regular diet. he'll catch on pretty quick that he only gets those things from you and soon, instead of avoiding you and pushing you away, he'll be seeking you out and digging through your pockets!
good luck!How can I bond with my Rabbit ?
docktape
well get another rabbit and make him jelous,he'll soon be running back to you.
try getting a new set of bells, at this time of year i suggest jingle bells
he may be in heat..........
I've heard rabbits prefer the gentler voiced girls to men.. and I'm making no reference to rampant..
superglue
My Girlfriend had rampant rabbit. She bonded very well with that.
Go to an adult web site to find out about bondage clubs
Show him the Casserole dish.
you cut of his 'nuts' and you wonder why!!!!!!!
He is just pissed off, like you said.He has taken to your girlfriend because she did not get him hurt.Don't force yourself on him. Talk gently to him. Tell him you are sorry but had to do it. Give him treats.He may eventually even take them from you again but let him see you leave them in his cage. Only apoligize once. Eventually, he will forgive you and become friends again.Have your girlfriend kinda stay away from him so he knows he doesn't really have anyone else.She can still see him and speak to him but he needs his time for you if he wants to be held and loved on.
How would you feel about someone who was instrumental in removing your testicles ?. Give him time, he might forgive you.
eat him
there is no bond closer than that of consumption of the flesh of another
i dont know
SUPERGLUE....
Tell him to hop it!
OK, wow I have a really dirty mind because I thought you were talking about the other ';rabbit'; that is popular with the ladies....
Anyway, just keep playing with him, it may just be a weird phase.
hes probably pissed at you however maybe your holding him too much bcause when i hold my rabbit he scratches me alot, or maybe hes just trying to play around with you .
Just start by giving him a treat everyday. And soon he'll know your gonna give him a treat so he'll come up to you for the treat and slowly start petting him while you give him the treats. Every day just get closer to him and pet him more. Talk to him nice and softly too to him. And eventually he will love ya! I've never had this problem with my bunny. My bunny loves me to death. He lets me hold him like a baby and he falls asleep in my arms its so cute. Hes a lop eared bunny too. Good luck and hope I helped somewhat.
he probably is annoyed and recognizes ure smell, hold him gently and show him u dont want to hurt him
I agree with jordon r on this ,but one thing I do ,I have an outdoor lop I ware the same shoes outside all the time and he seem to smell the scent ,he runs around me and follows me round the garden but he only lets me stroke him when he wants to on his terms as I say when he wants to play he circles me until I play his game
industrial super glue
when you go to the rabbit try to act like your in a very good mood and feed him take care and try and bond hope it helps i know that this is nt good advice
How do I correctly pulpate my rabbit?
My rabbit is 1 1/2 weeks pregnant. How do I pulpate her correctly? Do you think she is far enough along to do that?How do I correctly pulpate my rabbit?
Don't do it as you can kill the kits if it is not done rightHow do I correctly pulpate my rabbit?
just take her to the vet.
Rabbits can just figure out how to do everything by themselves. My rabbits have had tons of babies and i haven't done anything to help them along except for making sure they have hay and a nice nesting box. Even if you try to feel the babies you won't be able to because right now they are probably only the size of a marble. they don't get very big until the third week.
Don't do it as you can kill the kits if it is not done rightHow do I correctly pulpate my rabbit?
just take her to the vet.
Rabbits can just figure out how to do everything by themselves. My rabbits have had tons of babies and i haven't done anything to help them along except for making sure they have hay and a nice nesting box. Even if you try to feel the babies you won't be able to because right now they are probably only the size of a marble. they don't get very big until the third week.
How can i train my pet rabbit from getting in bad areas ans chewing wires?
my rabbit is so annoying he likes to hide behind my tv and chew all the wires %26amp; no im not up to remodelling my room. are there any training suggestions to get him away from the damn wires?How can i train my pet rabbit from getting in bad areas ans chewing wires?
Bitter apple. Works like a charm!How can i train my pet rabbit from getting in bad areas ans chewing wires?
hahaha, i had the same problem!!! it was pretty rough. we had to do re-wiring on EVERYTHING! went through 3 ps2 controlers, and God only knows how many phone chargers!! ha.. but they say you can get some spray to stop it, but i never invested in that, i just started letting him outside when he wanted out of his cage instead of my bedroom. its pretty impossible to go without remodeling or duct tapping the wires to the walls.
Keep all the weirs in tubes
This may not be relevant to your question and is not just about dutch rabbits.
A lot of pet owners like myself are still learning about our pets even after 35 years of owning rabbits. I hand the following out to anyone who buys any of my rabbit breeds. I live in the UK, I breed and exhibit standard rex, dutch, harlequins, magpies and dwarf lops rabbits, also ferrets and ferret cross European polecat hybrids, I got my first pet ferret and pet rabbit over 50 years ago.
History
Dutch rabbits, along with the English, were the most popular pet and exhibition rabbits a position that has now been filled by the Lop breeds. Originally from Holland or Belgium, the breed is striking in its appearance with a white blaze carrying up to a point between the ears, a saddle of colour continuing right around the middle of the rabbit with a straight edge and white markings on the hind feet. Their coat should be glossy and they are a medium size rabbit weighing 2.04 -2. 26 kg (4.5 lb. 5 lb.).
Behaviour
Dutch rabbits are very lively and alert and should make good pets although a prospective owner should be looking for a breeder that handles the rabbits regularly from a young age so that the rabbit is not too jumpy. Colours Black, Blue, Chocolate, Yellow, Tortoiseshell, Steel Grey, Brown Grey, Pale Grey and Tri Colour
By using body language rabbits can stamp their feet or with a flash of a tail they can be seen and heard by other rabbits over a long distance.
Feeding Rabbits require a high fibre with lots of low quality hay (dried grass) or straw and low protein feed to prevent digestive problems, all rabbits do better on a poor quality hay than on a better quality hay such as timothy hay. Use rabbit pellets which can be purchased from pet shops to provide all your rabbits dietary needs, along with all types of fresh fruit, vegetables (green stuffs) and all types of roots. Most green stuffs are suitable for rabbits although be careful to avoid feeding potatoes (they have toxic parts) lettuce, chicory, chickweed and dandelions (can cause diarrhoea if fed in excess). Extra vitamins, salt licks are not generally required and mine never get any. I also use leaves from blackberries, raspberries, strawberries and other fruit bushes, along with a lot of wild greens during the summer.
Any changes in diet must be made slowly (green stuffs and prepared feeds) over a period of a couple of weeks, to avoid digestive upsets. Fresh water must be available at all times and renewed daily.
To enable your rabbit to extract as much protein, vitamins and minerals from their food as possible, they digest their food twice, these are soft, kidney shaped droppings which are covered in a small amount of mucous. These droppings are very different from the dry round droppings that you will usually see your rabbit passing.
Rabbits are herbivorous and wild rabbits will spend most of their lives grazing on grass, foliage, flowers and roots
Housing
For first time rabbit owner once you get home with your rabbit, put it in your cage and leave it for 48 house so that it can get used to its new surroundings before you start handling it, if you start to handle it too early you could end up with a very grumpy young rabbit from the start.
Rabbits can be kept indoors or outdoors, either way they need their own space in an appropriate cage or hutch. There are many purpose built cages and hutches available, alternatively you could build your own. It is recommended that you purchase the best quality you can afford, your rabbit will need it for 7--12 years. Make sure that the hutch is large enough for your rabbit to stretch full out, and high enough for your rabbit to stand upright. Dutch rabbits are generally comfortable in a 4' x 2' hutch. If kept outdoors, the hutch should have a dark enclosed area to provide your rabbit with a quiet space. The main living area should be large enough for your rabbit to stretch full out, and have wire mesh on the door. The hutch should be at least 6'; off the floor to provide adequate ventilation. In the winter you can move your rabbits indoors or into a shed. They are also quite happy remaining out of doors, providing extra protection such as an old blanket draped over the front of the hutch at night in very cold weather. Remember rabbits need good ventilation, you cannot therefore leave the cover down permanently otherwise your rabbit will succumb to chest infections from the damp, ammonia or overheating, and rabbits die from all of these.
Bedding
Hay, straw and wood chips all make suitable bedding for rabbits. It is down to personal choice which you use, however, research has shown that rabbits will choose straw rather than wood chip or wire bottomed cages. All bedding should be renewed at least once a week, and the hutch should be washed, scrubbed and disinfected several times per year.
Rabbits can live out doors quite happily at minus 20c or below, all they need is plenty of bedding and a 4 inch layer of shavings
Exercise
Rabbits need regular stimulation and exercise in a safe environment. This can be in a purpose made rabbit run or simply by bringing your rabbit indoors and letting it play in your living room. Rabbits that are playing outside of their hutches, either in a run or indoors, should be supervised at all times and their play area must be 'rabbit proofed' by removing any hazards. Young rabbits will enjoy exercise, but be careful not to over do it, particularly if you are still in the 'getting to know each other' period.
Rabbits are sociable creatures and enjoy the company of humans, dogs, cats and other rabbits if carefully introduced. It is generally suggested that each rabbit has its own hutch (particularly if you intend to show it) as rabbits are like children and prefer not to share 'bedrooms'. They can, however, socialise together in common space, such as rabbit runs, and will like being able to see and hear another rabbit when they are in their own hutches. 2 bucks must never be put together even in a run if they have not been castrated (they will fight).
Rabbits need to be occupied and they love playing with toys. This can include manufactured toys for human babies, birds, cats, dogs, hamsters etc. But rabbits will equally get hours of enjoyment from some very cheap, readily available items in the household, blocks of wood, planks, plastic flower pots.
Rabbits can get exercise by taking them out on a harness and lead, but the problem with this is that rabbits can pick up diseases and fleas left on the grass by other rabbits, if their vaccinations are up to date they should not get any of the diseases but they will still pick up fleas.
Rabbits left to run around the home while the householder is out will chew wires, electric leads and furniture, these pets should be put in a pen or hutch while the householders are not at home.
Health
It is recommend that you get your rabbit covered by Pet Insurance as veterinary fees can mount up. Never leave a rabbit in the sole care of a child. As an adult you will have to assume sole responsibility for the health and welfare of your rabbit.
To prevent territorial behaviour of both bucks (males) and does (females), it is suggested that pet rabbits are neutered, if they are not neutered then it should be one rabbit per cage. Never put intact cavies / guinea-pigs in with intact rabbits as they will both sexually abuse each other, cavies / guinea- pigs should be housed with others of the same species. Males can be neutered at around 3-4 months, and does at 6 months. Females over 2-3 years old that are not being regularly bred from are at high risk of developing uterine cancer unless neutered.
Rabbits have little ability to regulate their body temperature and die very easily from heat stroke. Ensure adequate shade is provided at all times. Handle your rabbit daily, and it will generally enjoy your company. Never pick a rabbit up by its ears, and always support your rabbits back and hind quarters when handling. Rabbits can easily experience spinal injuries. Rabbits nails need clipping every 6-8 weeks and teeth should be checked weekly to ensure they are correctly aligned. Rabbits moult 2-4 times a year, only one of these will be heavy (usually late Spring/early Summer).
Seek veterinary advice if your rabbit develops discharges from the eye, nose or mouth, has scabs inside its ears, is passing diarrhoea or mucous, or stops eating and/or drinking. Any ill rabbit must always be given drinking water in a bowl. Water bottles are a clean, hygienic way of providing water if you rabbit is fit and well, but ill rabbits often become listless and will be unlikely to be bothered to lift their heads up to the spout of a bottle and will dehydrate and die very quickly. If at all worried about your rabbit seek Veterinary Advice as sick or injured rabbits die very quickly
Healthy rabbits kept in clean conditions should not need bathing, if you think your rabbit needs a bath, first sort out why you think so and what you have done wrong in the first place.
Male Rabbit-BUCK (Sire) Female Rabbit-DOE (Dam) Young rabbit- KIT (offspring)
Breeding
All rabbits should have their first litter before they reach 12 months old, if this is left until latter complications can set in and 95% of all older female rabbits die. Males can father a litter anytime from 9 months old up to 12 years old. When breeding each doe should have her own cage to have her litter in, that way she will feel safe and in wild rabbits the pregnant doe leaves all the other rabbits and makes a stop (small burrow) where only she knows the litter can be found and it is not until the kits are ready to leave the stop that they return to the larger warren and all the other rabbits.
Pregnant rabbits can be handled until she starts pulling out her belly fur, at this point she should not be handled as the stress of the forthcoming litter and being handled may cause her to abort the litter.
If you intend breeding rabbits try to get hold of some pedigree stock, there are millions of cross bred rabbits about and a lot just end up being slaughtered, but with pedigree stock is always some one out there who will buy them.
The doe must be put in with the buck who has to be housed separately and the matting only take a couple of seconds, then for the next three weeks she can be treated just as if she had not be mated only with a slight increase of food, by the 21 st day you should be starting to prepare for the birth by putting lots of hay or straw in the bedding area so that the doe can start to build her nest. Longhaired rabbits such as Angora's, Cashmeres and Lionheads need a lot of grooming and short hair rabbits require less grooming
My experience
I have bred, exhibited and owned rabbits since the early 70's, all of my rabbits are healthy and well cared for, they live up to 12 years.
Showing
The Hobby of Breeding %26amp; Exhibiting Rabbits is called 'The Fancy'. Every weekend, all over the country, rabbit shows are taking place. Many are Local Rabbit Clubs holding their single-day shows in places such as Village Halls and Scout Huts. Others are two-day Championship Shows held in Sports Centres and School Halls.
Contact me if you need any more help.
Stop him getting behind the TV, move it so there's no space.
Give him his own toys to chew on, and praise him for doing so.
Don't try and discipline him for chewing ';bad'; things; he wont understand and will get scared and may end up lashing out at you (and hurting you).
To stop him chewing ';bad'; things either make a very loud noise (I shout my rabbits names) or get a squirt-bottle of water and squirt them in the face, this will make him want to clean himself *right away* and will ';distract'; him from chewing. Eventually he will learn that when he chews wires something annoying or loud happens so it's best not to do it.
You can't train a rabbit. The only thing you can do is block off the areas that he likes to hide in and keep a really close eye on him when you let him out of his cage. Or you can let him out in the bathroom instead of in your room, there really won't be anything for him to get into there. Good luck!
You absolutely can train a rabbit. My rabbit is free range, like a cat, she has complete run of my house with two litterboxes.
To train her from stop chewing mommy's pottery barn furniture and wires, I read a book about clicker training. When she went near an area where i didn't want her (behind the entertainment center where every wire known to man kind is) I would take out a spray bottle say ';Sophie no no no'; and spray her body with water. I would do this consistently. Now, two and a half years later, I see her going to a bad area and say ';Sophie no no no'; and by the time I get to the 2nd no, she darts off in the opposite direction of where she was heading. It's kinda like Pavlov's dog. She associates that phrase with getting wet. You do have to reinforce the training and that takes commitment on part of the pet owner.
Sophie will come on comand, return to her house on command, knows the words no and stay, and knows the area in the kitchen and living room she is not allowed in. BUT like any child, likes to push my buttons occassionally and see if I let her slide on some things or if i'll call her on it. To the people that say a rabbit can't be trained, they simply don't have the patience and commitment to do the training.
As far as wires, i bought plastic aquarium tubing. It's cheap and you can slice right down the middle and pop the cord right in. It will protect your cords from bunny's teeth. Also, if you bun likes to pull at carpeting, spray some perfume in that area, directly on to the carpeting. Rabbits have a very strong sense of smell and won't continue pulling at the carpet there.
Chewing things that get in their line of vision or escape route is survival instinct for rabbits.
I've had house rabbits for decades, bitter apple never worked for us, nor did wrapping wires in aluminum foil, plastic tape, putting red pepper on them, etc.
I would not suggest using the rabbits name in a scary or frightening way either...could form negative associations.
Even serious electric shock and burns did not deter my rabbits from chewing a wire, so I am doubtful about the squirtgun method.
The real solution is to think like a rabbit. Get on the floor and look around. Imagine you're an animal at the bottom of the food chain and that you NEED to have clear pathways so you can see predators and run away from them fast.
Anything that sticks out is fair game for your teeth. Wires need to be in metal conduit, taped flush to walls and floors with tape that blends into the color of the wall, or kept up higher than the bunny can reach when it gets on its hind legs.
Some people have had success with putting the wires in PVC piping, but I've seen rabbits chew on/through that too...if they feel it is interferring with their safety.
For your own safety and the bunny's...don't put wires under rugs (fire hazard) and do make sure bunny can't get to them..electrocution and fire hazard. Get those wires up high, or limit bunny to a room that is truly bunny proof.
Books that stick out from shelves, the bottoms of couches and curtains are also vulnerable to bunny's instinct.
Personally, I think it's sort cruel to try to teach such a simple creature NOT to do something that is so instinctual. Rabbits aren't dumb...but they are rabbits, and they think, act and respond like rabbits. Since we are the ones taking them out of their natural environment, where their instincts work beautifully, seems like the responsibility is on us to create a new environment that is rabbit friendly. Not to scare or punish the rabbit for being a rabbit because it is inconvenient to our lifestyle.
Bitter apple. Works like a charm!How can i train my pet rabbit from getting in bad areas ans chewing wires?
hahaha, i had the same problem!!! it was pretty rough. we had to do re-wiring on EVERYTHING! went through 3 ps2 controlers, and God only knows how many phone chargers!! ha.. but they say you can get some spray to stop it, but i never invested in that, i just started letting him outside when he wanted out of his cage instead of my bedroom. its pretty impossible to go without remodeling or duct tapping the wires to the walls.
Keep all the weirs in tubes
This may not be relevant to your question and is not just about dutch rabbits.
A lot of pet owners like myself are still learning about our pets even after 35 years of owning rabbits. I hand the following out to anyone who buys any of my rabbit breeds. I live in the UK, I breed and exhibit standard rex, dutch, harlequins, magpies and dwarf lops rabbits, also ferrets and ferret cross European polecat hybrids, I got my first pet ferret and pet rabbit over 50 years ago.
History
Dutch rabbits, along with the English, were the most popular pet and exhibition rabbits a position that has now been filled by the Lop breeds. Originally from Holland or Belgium, the breed is striking in its appearance with a white blaze carrying up to a point between the ears, a saddle of colour continuing right around the middle of the rabbit with a straight edge and white markings on the hind feet. Their coat should be glossy and they are a medium size rabbit weighing 2.04 -2. 26 kg (4.5 lb. 5 lb.).
Behaviour
Dutch rabbits are very lively and alert and should make good pets although a prospective owner should be looking for a breeder that handles the rabbits regularly from a young age so that the rabbit is not too jumpy. Colours Black, Blue, Chocolate, Yellow, Tortoiseshell, Steel Grey, Brown Grey, Pale Grey and Tri Colour
By using body language rabbits can stamp their feet or with a flash of a tail they can be seen and heard by other rabbits over a long distance.
Feeding Rabbits require a high fibre with lots of low quality hay (dried grass) or straw and low protein feed to prevent digestive problems, all rabbits do better on a poor quality hay than on a better quality hay such as timothy hay. Use rabbit pellets which can be purchased from pet shops to provide all your rabbits dietary needs, along with all types of fresh fruit, vegetables (green stuffs) and all types of roots. Most green stuffs are suitable for rabbits although be careful to avoid feeding potatoes (they have toxic parts) lettuce, chicory, chickweed and dandelions (can cause diarrhoea if fed in excess). Extra vitamins, salt licks are not generally required and mine never get any. I also use leaves from blackberries, raspberries, strawberries and other fruit bushes, along with a lot of wild greens during the summer.
Any changes in diet must be made slowly (green stuffs and prepared feeds) over a period of a couple of weeks, to avoid digestive upsets. Fresh water must be available at all times and renewed daily.
To enable your rabbit to extract as much protein, vitamins and minerals from their food as possible, they digest their food twice, these are soft, kidney shaped droppings which are covered in a small amount of mucous. These droppings are very different from the dry round droppings that you will usually see your rabbit passing.
Rabbits are herbivorous and wild rabbits will spend most of their lives grazing on grass, foliage, flowers and roots
Housing
For first time rabbit owner once you get home with your rabbit, put it in your cage and leave it for 48 house so that it can get used to its new surroundings before you start handling it, if you start to handle it too early you could end up with a very grumpy young rabbit from the start.
Rabbits can be kept indoors or outdoors, either way they need their own space in an appropriate cage or hutch. There are many purpose built cages and hutches available, alternatively you could build your own. It is recommended that you purchase the best quality you can afford, your rabbit will need it for 7--12 years. Make sure that the hutch is large enough for your rabbit to stretch full out, and high enough for your rabbit to stand upright. Dutch rabbits are generally comfortable in a 4' x 2' hutch. If kept outdoors, the hutch should have a dark enclosed area to provide your rabbit with a quiet space. The main living area should be large enough for your rabbit to stretch full out, and have wire mesh on the door. The hutch should be at least 6'; off the floor to provide adequate ventilation. In the winter you can move your rabbits indoors or into a shed. They are also quite happy remaining out of doors, providing extra protection such as an old blanket draped over the front of the hutch at night in very cold weather. Remember rabbits need good ventilation, you cannot therefore leave the cover down permanently otherwise your rabbit will succumb to chest infections from the damp, ammonia or overheating, and rabbits die from all of these.
Bedding
Hay, straw and wood chips all make suitable bedding for rabbits. It is down to personal choice which you use, however, research has shown that rabbits will choose straw rather than wood chip or wire bottomed cages. All bedding should be renewed at least once a week, and the hutch should be washed, scrubbed and disinfected several times per year.
Rabbits can live out doors quite happily at minus 20c or below, all they need is plenty of bedding and a 4 inch layer of shavings
Exercise
Rabbits need regular stimulation and exercise in a safe environment. This can be in a purpose made rabbit run or simply by bringing your rabbit indoors and letting it play in your living room. Rabbits that are playing outside of their hutches, either in a run or indoors, should be supervised at all times and their play area must be 'rabbit proofed' by removing any hazards. Young rabbits will enjoy exercise, but be careful not to over do it, particularly if you are still in the 'getting to know each other' period.
Rabbits are sociable creatures and enjoy the company of humans, dogs, cats and other rabbits if carefully introduced. It is generally suggested that each rabbit has its own hutch (particularly if you intend to show it) as rabbits are like children and prefer not to share 'bedrooms'. They can, however, socialise together in common space, such as rabbit runs, and will like being able to see and hear another rabbit when they are in their own hutches. 2 bucks must never be put together even in a run if they have not been castrated (they will fight).
Rabbits need to be occupied and they love playing with toys. This can include manufactured toys for human babies, birds, cats, dogs, hamsters etc. But rabbits will equally get hours of enjoyment from some very cheap, readily available items in the household, blocks of wood, planks, plastic flower pots.
Rabbits can get exercise by taking them out on a harness and lead, but the problem with this is that rabbits can pick up diseases and fleas left on the grass by other rabbits, if their vaccinations are up to date they should not get any of the diseases but they will still pick up fleas.
Rabbits left to run around the home while the householder is out will chew wires, electric leads and furniture, these pets should be put in a pen or hutch while the householders are not at home.
Health
It is recommend that you get your rabbit covered by Pet Insurance as veterinary fees can mount up. Never leave a rabbit in the sole care of a child. As an adult you will have to assume sole responsibility for the health and welfare of your rabbit.
To prevent territorial behaviour of both bucks (males) and does (females), it is suggested that pet rabbits are neutered, if they are not neutered then it should be one rabbit per cage. Never put intact cavies / guinea-pigs in with intact rabbits as they will both sexually abuse each other, cavies / guinea- pigs should be housed with others of the same species. Males can be neutered at around 3-4 months, and does at 6 months. Females over 2-3 years old that are not being regularly bred from are at high risk of developing uterine cancer unless neutered.
Rabbits have little ability to regulate their body temperature and die very easily from heat stroke. Ensure adequate shade is provided at all times. Handle your rabbit daily, and it will generally enjoy your company. Never pick a rabbit up by its ears, and always support your rabbits back and hind quarters when handling. Rabbits can easily experience spinal injuries. Rabbits nails need clipping every 6-8 weeks and teeth should be checked weekly to ensure they are correctly aligned. Rabbits moult 2-4 times a year, only one of these will be heavy (usually late Spring/early Summer).
Seek veterinary advice if your rabbit develops discharges from the eye, nose or mouth, has scabs inside its ears, is passing diarrhoea or mucous, or stops eating and/or drinking. Any ill rabbit must always be given drinking water in a bowl. Water bottles are a clean, hygienic way of providing water if you rabbit is fit and well, but ill rabbits often become listless and will be unlikely to be bothered to lift their heads up to the spout of a bottle and will dehydrate and die very quickly. If at all worried about your rabbit seek Veterinary Advice as sick or injured rabbits die very quickly
Healthy rabbits kept in clean conditions should not need bathing, if you think your rabbit needs a bath, first sort out why you think so and what you have done wrong in the first place.
Male Rabbit-BUCK (Sire) Female Rabbit-DOE (Dam) Young rabbit- KIT (offspring)
Breeding
All rabbits should have their first litter before they reach 12 months old, if this is left until latter complications can set in and 95% of all older female rabbits die. Males can father a litter anytime from 9 months old up to 12 years old. When breeding each doe should have her own cage to have her litter in, that way she will feel safe and in wild rabbits the pregnant doe leaves all the other rabbits and makes a stop (small burrow) where only she knows the litter can be found and it is not until the kits are ready to leave the stop that they return to the larger warren and all the other rabbits.
Pregnant rabbits can be handled until she starts pulling out her belly fur, at this point she should not be handled as the stress of the forthcoming litter and being handled may cause her to abort the litter.
If you intend breeding rabbits try to get hold of some pedigree stock, there are millions of cross bred rabbits about and a lot just end up being slaughtered, but with pedigree stock is always some one out there who will buy them.
The doe must be put in with the buck who has to be housed separately and the matting only take a couple of seconds, then for the next three weeks she can be treated just as if she had not be mated only with a slight increase of food, by the 21 st day you should be starting to prepare for the birth by putting lots of hay or straw in the bedding area so that the doe can start to build her nest. Longhaired rabbits such as Angora's, Cashmeres and Lionheads need a lot of grooming and short hair rabbits require less grooming
My experience
I have bred, exhibited and owned rabbits since the early 70's, all of my rabbits are healthy and well cared for, they live up to 12 years.
Showing
The Hobby of Breeding %26amp; Exhibiting Rabbits is called 'The Fancy'. Every weekend, all over the country, rabbit shows are taking place. Many are Local Rabbit Clubs holding their single-day shows in places such as Village Halls and Scout Huts. Others are two-day Championship Shows held in Sports Centres and School Halls.
Contact me if you need any more help.
Stop him getting behind the TV, move it so there's no space.
Give him his own toys to chew on, and praise him for doing so.
Don't try and discipline him for chewing ';bad'; things; he wont understand and will get scared and may end up lashing out at you (and hurting you).
To stop him chewing ';bad'; things either make a very loud noise (I shout my rabbits names) or get a squirt-bottle of water and squirt them in the face, this will make him want to clean himself *right away* and will ';distract'; him from chewing. Eventually he will learn that when he chews wires something annoying or loud happens so it's best not to do it.
You can't train a rabbit. The only thing you can do is block off the areas that he likes to hide in and keep a really close eye on him when you let him out of his cage. Or you can let him out in the bathroom instead of in your room, there really won't be anything for him to get into there. Good luck!
You absolutely can train a rabbit. My rabbit is free range, like a cat, she has complete run of my house with two litterboxes.
To train her from stop chewing mommy's pottery barn furniture and wires, I read a book about clicker training. When she went near an area where i didn't want her (behind the entertainment center where every wire known to man kind is) I would take out a spray bottle say ';Sophie no no no'; and spray her body with water. I would do this consistently. Now, two and a half years later, I see her going to a bad area and say ';Sophie no no no'; and by the time I get to the 2nd no, she darts off in the opposite direction of where she was heading. It's kinda like Pavlov's dog. She associates that phrase with getting wet. You do have to reinforce the training and that takes commitment on part of the pet owner.
Sophie will come on comand, return to her house on command, knows the words no and stay, and knows the area in the kitchen and living room she is not allowed in. BUT like any child, likes to push my buttons occassionally and see if I let her slide on some things or if i'll call her on it. To the people that say a rabbit can't be trained, they simply don't have the patience and commitment to do the training.
As far as wires, i bought plastic aquarium tubing. It's cheap and you can slice right down the middle and pop the cord right in. It will protect your cords from bunny's teeth. Also, if you bun likes to pull at carpeting, spray some perfume in that area, directly on to the carpeting. Rabbits have a very strong sense of smell and won't continue pulling at the carpet there.
Chewing things that get in their line of vision or escape route is survival instinct for rabbits.
I've had house rabbits for decades, bitter apple never worked for us, nor did wrapping wires in aluminum foil, plastic tape, putting red pepper on them, etc.
I would not suggest using the rabbits name in a scary or frightening way either...could form negative associations.
Even serious electric shock and burns did not deter my rabbits from chewing a wire, so I am doubtful about the squirtgun method.
The real solution is to think like a rabbit. Get on the floor and look around. Imagine you're an animal at the bottom of the food chain and that you NEED to have clear pathways so you can see predators and run away from them fast.
Anything that sticks out is fair game for your teeth. Wires need to be in metal conduit, taped flush to walls and floors with tape that blends into the color of the wall, or kept up higher than the bunny can reach when it gets on its hind legs.
Some people have had success with putting the wires in PVC piping, but I've seen rabbits chew on/through that too...if they feel it is interferring with their safety.
For your own safety and the bunny's...don't put wires under rugs (fire hazard) and do make sure bunny can't get to them..electrocution and fire hazard. Get those wires up high, or limit bunny to a room that is truly bunny proof.
Books that stick out from shelves, the bottoms of couches and curtains are also vulnerable to bunny's instinct.
Personally, I think it's sort cruel to try to teach such a simple creature NOT to do something that is so instinctual. Rabbits aren't dumb...but they are rabbits, and they think, act and respond like rabbits. Since we are the ones taking them out of their natural environment, where their instincts work beautifully, seems like the responsibility is on us to create a new environment that is rabbit friendly. Not to scare or punish the rabbit for being a rabbit because it is inconvenient to our lifestyle.
How can I improve and stiffen up the handling of my 08 vw rabbit?
It has electromechanical steering that is computer controlled, you can use a vag com computer to increase the feedback in the steering only on vws earlier than 07, so that's not an option.How can I improve and stiffen up the handling of my 08 vw rabbit?
You could get coilovers. They don't give the best ride but they're very stiff. You could also look into wider tires. The wider your car is, the less it'll roll when going around a turn.
Sway bars don't do much and really aren't worth the cost.How can I improve and stiffen up the handling of my 08 vw rabbit?
Shocks and Springs - H%26amp;R are popular springs on VW's
You can also get adjustable coilovers if you want to adjust the height of your ride, while also being able to adjust the softness or stiffness of the ride.
If your going for cheap but effective I would go with Springs and shocks. Try TireRack.com...a good set will cost around $500-600. Coilovers are around $1000.
I would also recommend also getting a rear sway bar to stiffen up the rear of the car. H%26amp;R and Neuspeed will make one for your car. I hope this helps. Good luck
I provided some links below for you to check out.
Get yourself a set of Eibach springs, and performance struts.eye look
You could get coilovers. They don't give the best ride but they're very stiff. You could also look into wider tires. The wider your car is, the less it'll roll when going around a turn.
Sway bars don't do much and really aren't worth the cost.How can I improve and stiffen up the handling of my 08 vw rabbit?
Shocks and Springs - H%26amp;R are popular springs on VW's
You can also get adjustable coilovers if you want to adjust the height of your ride, while also being able to adjust the softness or stiffness of the ride.
If your going for cheap but effective I would go with Springs and shocks. Try TireRack.com...a good set will cost around $500-600. Coilovers are around $1000.
I would also recommend also getting a rear sway bar to stiffen up the rear of the car. H%26amp;R and Neuspeed will make one for your car. I hope this helps. Good luck
I provided some links below for you to check out.
Get yourself a set of Eibach springs, and performance struts.
What size cage will I need if I get for a holland lop rabbit?
They are usually 2.5-4 lbs if im correct, so what size cage do I need?
Would a 3x2 ft. cage be okay? Or do they need one bigger, because if they do, thats what i'll get.What size cage will I need if I get for a holland lop rabbit?
Mine is in a cage that is rectangular, about four feet long, by two feet high. A little smaller is okay, but it is integral that they have time out of their cage too in a bunny safe area. Or a play pen in a larger room to keep him in there.What size cage will I need if I get for a holland lop rabbit?
3x2 would be fine but 4x6 would be better, but also you will need to give him plenty of time out of his cage. my rabbits get at least one hour of free time a day. also if you feed him mostly pellets he will get fat and have a shortened lifespan, feed him plenty of fresh veggies.
Here are some really good examples of cages made specifically for rabbits
http://www.qualitycage.com/rabbit.html
The cage is going to be like an ';apartment'; if you will to the rabbit. Get something that is large enough for the rabbit to have a life in hon. Not just a size where the rabbit can ';fit';. You are in essence buying a new ';house'; for this rabbit so pick a size that will give them comfort for the rest of their life. Not just something they can lay around in but not walk around in. Or jump around in. You can use a large dog cage. I would get the largest size dog cage your money will afford you and give this rabbit a great large place to live. Rabbits run around. There are tons of them where I live who live in the wild. They run all over the lawn and so forth. So to put the rabbit in a cage won't be natural. Kind of like us going into a jail cell. We would want the largest jail cell we could get.
Would a 3x2 ft. cage be okay? Or do they need one bigger, because if they do, thats what i'll get.What size cage will I need if I get for a holland lop rabbit?
Mine is in a cage that is rectangular, about four feet long, by two feet high. A little smaller is okay, but it is integral that they have time out of their cage too in a bunny safe area. Or a play pen in a larger room to keep him in there.What size cage will I need if I get for a holland lop rabbit?
3x2 would be fine but 4x6 would be better, but also you will need to give him plenty of time out of his cage. my rabbits get at least one hour of free time a day. also if you feed him mostly pellets he will get fat and have a shortened lifespan, feed him plenty of fresh veggies.
Here are some really good examples of cages made specifically for rabbits
http://www.qualitycage.com/rabbit.html
The cage is going to be like an ';apartment'; if you will to the rabbit. Get something that is large enough for the rabbit to have a life in hon. Not just a size where the rabbit can ';fit';. You are in essence buying a new ';house'; for this rabbit so pick a size that will give them comfort for the rest of their life. Not just something they can lay around in but not walk around in. Or jump around in. You can use a large dog cage. I would get the largest size dog cage your money will afford you and give this rabbit a great large place to live. Rabbits run around. There are tons of them where I live who live in the wild. They run all over the lawn and so forth. So to put the rabbit in a cage won't be natural. Kind of like us going into a jail cell. We would want the largest jail cell we could get.
What are some nutritious food for rabbit?
What are some food that contains vitamins that are suitable for rabbit except for hay?What are some nutritious food for rabbit?
After hay, the main part of a rabbit's diet should be leafy green vegetables. My two like kale, mustard greens, spinach, green leaf lettuce, and collard greens, to name a few. Fruits like apples, pineapple, banana, and grapes make good occasional treats, as do carrots.What are some nutritious food for rabbit?
Carrots %26amp; lettuce.
ooh!!ooh!! carrots!!!
Given in moderation, carrots are a good idea, turnips, lettuce too :%26gt;.
-Em
timothy hay, healthy pellets, romaine lettuce
sometimes carrots and apple, but they have a lot of sugar
After hay, the main part of a rabbit's diet should be leafy green vegetables. My two like kale, mustard greens, spinach, green leaf lettuce, and collard greens, to name a few. Fruits like apples, pineapple, banana, and grapes make good occasional treats, as do carrots.What are some nutritious food for rabbit?
Carrots %26amp; lettuce.
ooh!!ooh!! carrots!!!
Given in moderation, carrots are a good idea, turnips, lettuce too :%26gt;.
-Em
timothy hay, healthy pellets, romaine lettuce
sometimes carrots and apple, but they have a lot of sugar
How to take care of my rabbit's babies?
My rabbit is getting lots bigger and I am afraid she is going to have babies soon. I have no idea how to care for a newborn rabbit. I need to know what to do, what to watch for, and what do avoid. Help will be apprieciatedHow to take care of my rabbit's babies?
get a nest box : you can make one by putting a shoebox in the corner of the cage and shell put things in it and make it comfortable shell most likely have the babies when nobody is home or when its quiet (,mine had hers when i was in school) when she does have the babies keep a close eye on her but dont get to close or ';stress'; her. do not touch the babies. if the mom eats one or more babies take the rest out and youll have to feed them yourself. this is simple...
1. get kitten milk (this is what i used) and a syringe. put the kitten milk in the syringe at first the bunnies might not take it simply put a SMALL drop on their lips, they usully lick it off, do this until they refuse to eat anymore or for w.e. reason. you need to do tons of research on this :) they DONT eat every 45 min. like people say they do!
OR
2. get the mommy out and the babies lay a towel under then and see if can flip the mom over and put the bunnies on her belly until they are done eating or after 6 or 7 min. if she doesnt let you flip her of they hold her down and make sure that sh cant get to the babies and let them eat, when they start running (or trying to walk away) put them whereever their sleeping...
you can keep them in a shoebox small box with a soft towel under them and cotton replacement stuff
heres some websites :
http://www.mybunny.org/info/newborn.htm
this is an excellent website it explains what to keep them in, what to feed them, how often, etc!
http://www.rabbit.org/care/babies.html
this explains what to expect, etc
http://www.animalhelp.com/pets/articlede鈥?/a>
this explains how to make a nest, what to use, etc
hope it helps :)How to take care of my rabbit's babies?
provide nesting box, and straw, grass, string, and other items. The mom plucks fur from her belly, and mixes it w/ nesting items. If no nesting box is provided she will pick a corner in her cage. Please provide her w/ a box. Babies are small, and can fall out of the cage. Box size depends on the rabbit. Rabbits love to sleep in a box even if not pregnant. I suggest a wood box with holes drilled in it for drainage. I used a cardboard box once in an emergency. The baby's are born without fur. Please protect the cage from rain, or direct sun. Use a large piece of plywood for a roof.
Call your vet!!!! You might also want to make the mama bunny a comfy soft bed and have somebody that the bunny knows to watch her when youre not available. I have a bunny but he's a boy.
get a nest box : you can make one by putting a shoebox in the corner of the cage and shell put things in it and make it comfortable shell most likely have the babies when nobody is home or when its quiet (,mine had hers when i was in school) when she does have the babies keep a close eye on her but dont get to close or ';stress'; her. do not touch the babies. if the mom eats one or more babies take the rest out and youll have to feed them yourself. this is simple...
1. get kitten milk (this is what i used) and a syringe. put the kitten milk in the syringe at first the bunnies might not take it simply put a SMALL drop on their lips, they usully lick it off, do this until they refuse to eat anymore or for w.e. reason. you need to do tons of research on this :) they DONT eat every 45 min. like people say they do!
OR
2. get the mommy out and the babies lay a towel under then and see if can flip the mom over and put the bunnies on her belly until they are done eating or after 6 or 7 min. if she doesnt let you flip her of they hold her down and make sure that sh cant get to the babies and let them eat, when they start running (or trying to walk away) put them whereever their sleeping...
you can keep them in a shoebox small box with a soft towel under them and cotton replacement stuff
heres some websites :
http://www.mybunny.org/info/newborn.htm
this is an excellent website it explains what to keep them in, what to feed them, how often, etc!
http://www.rabbit.org/care/babies.html
this explains what to expect, etc
http://www.animalhelp.com/pets/articlede鈥?/a>
this explains how to make a nest, what to use, etc
hope it helps :)How to take care of my rabbit's babies?
provide nesting box, and straw, grass, string, and other items. The mom plucks fur from her belly, and mixes it w/ nesting items. If no nesting box is provided she will pick a corner in her cage. Please provide her w/ a box. Babies are small, and can fall out of the cage. Box size depends on the rabbit. Rabbits love to sleep in a box even if not pregnant. I suggest a wood box with holes drilled in it for drainage. I used a cardboard box once in an emergency. The baby's are born without fur. Please protect the cage from rain, or direct sun. Use a large piece of plywood for a roof.
Call your vet!!!! You might also want to make the mama bunny a comfy soft bed and have somebody that the bunny knows to watch her when youre not available. I have a bunny but he's a boy.
How do you litter train a rabbit?
I have 2 dutch bunnies with a giant hutch and loads of space in a run below. They poo where they eat, i give them hay in their litter box, and in the morning I clean it out. But they also do a lot of mess every where else, and they mess up their run a lot. There was grass there to help decompose their mess, but they chewed it all up and destroyed it. So now their run is also a mess. Help!How do you litter train a rabbit?
Start with a good litter. Most cat litters are made from clay or other substances that will be very harmful to your rabbit, who will spend just as much time nibbling as eliminating in there.
The best litter source I've found is wood pellets designed to be burned in a wood pellet stove. They are natural with no added chemicals, and when wet simply dissolve, and are extremely cheap. You can find them at most hardware stores. You'll want to clean it out every one or two days. You can also try just newspaper or a litter like Yesterday's News that is just recycled paper.
Once you've got a box (a new cat box is just fine) and put your choice of litter down, put ample handfuls of hay on there. Show your rabbit this new treasure, and put it where she likes to eliminate the most. Don't leave hay or bedding anywhere else, so they don't get confused. Sweep up any stray pellets and put into the box and you can blot up urine spots and place them inside as well to give her the idea. She should start to use it enthusiastically as it's natural for a rabbit to eliminate in a specific spot. When she's got the idea of the box down, you can start moving it (slowly) to a spot of your choosing. Always praise good behavior, but do not scold accidents; this does more harm than good. Just put all accidents back into the box.
If your rabbit starts to dig out the litter, you may need to step up to a covered box, just cut some extra holes for easier access.How do you litter train a rabbit?
The best way to litter train a rabbit is to put the litter box where they normally poo. Get a cat litter box(a rabbit one is too small for two grown dutch bunnies) and fill 1-3cm with cat litter (preferably made out of recycled newspaper). Place this where they usually poo which is almost always in a corner so keep the litter tray in a protected/secluded spot. You may need to move the food bowls to somewhere close by.
if youre rabbits do not lie the litter tray, try putting treats on top
Indoor rabbits are trained the same way.
Your rabbits may dig in it.
:)
Start with a good litter. Most cat litters are made from clay or other substances that will be very harmful to your rabbit, who will spend just as much time nibbling as eliminating in there.
The best litter source I've found is wood pellets designed to be burned in a wood pellet stove. They are natural with no added chemicals, and when wet simply dissolve, and are extremely cheap. You can find them at most hardware stores. You'll want to clean it out every one or two days. You can also try just newspaper or a litter like Yesterday's News that is just recycled paper.
Once you've got a box (a new cat box is just fine) and put your choice of litter down, put ample handfuls of hay on there. Show your rabbit this new treasure, and put it where she likes to eliminate the most. Don't leave hay or bedding anywhere else, so they don't get confused. Sweep up any stray pellets and put into the box and you can blot up urine spots and place them inside as well to give her the idea. She should start to use it enthusiastically as it's natural for a rabbit to eliminate in a specific spot. When she's got the idea of the box down, you can start moving it (slowly) to a spot of your choosing. Always praise good behavior, but do not scold accidents; this does more harm than good. Just put all accidents back into the box.
If your rabbit starts to dig out the litter, you may need to step up to a covered box, just cut some extra holes for easier access.How do you litter train a rabbit?
The best way to litter train a rabbit is to put the litter box where they normally poo. Get a cat litter box(a rabbit one is too small for two grown dutch bunnies) and fill 1-3cm with cat litter (preferably made out of recycled newspaper). Place this where they usually poo which is almost always in a corner so keep the litter tray in a protected/secluded spot. You may need to move the food bowls to somewhere close by.
if youre rabbits do not lie the litter tray, try putting treats on top
Indoor rabbits are trained the same way.
Your rabbits may dig in it.
:)
How can i train my pet rabbit from getting in bad areas ans chewing wires?
my rabbit is so annoying he likes to hide behind my tv and chew all the wires %26amp; no im not up to remodelling my room. are there any training suggestions to get him away from the damn wires?How can i train my pet rabbit from getting in bad areas ans chewing wires?
Bitter apple. Works like a charm!How can i train my pet rabbit from getting in bad areas ans chewing wires?
hahaha, i had the same problem!!! it was pretty rough. we had to do re-wiring on EVERYTHING! went through 3 ps2 controlers, and God only knows how many phone chargers!! ha.. but they say you can get some spray to stop it, but i never invested in that, i just started letting him outside when he wanted out of his cage instead of my bedroom. its pretty impossible to go without remodeling or duct tapping the wires to the walls.
Keep all the weirs in tubes
This may not be relevant to your question and is not just about dutch rabbits.
A lot of pet owners like myself are still learning about our pets even after 35 years of owning rabbits. I hand the following out to anyone who buys any of my rabbit breeds. I live in the UK, I breed and exhibit standard rex, dutch, harlequins, magpies and dwarf lops rabbits, also ferrets and ferret cross European polecat hybrids, I got my first pet ferret and pet rabbit over 50 years ago.
History
Dutch rabbits, along with the English, were the most popular pet and exhibition rabbits a position that has now been filled by the Lop breeds. Originally from Holland or Belgium, the breed is striking in its appearance with a white blaze carrying up to a point between the ears, a saddle of colour continuing right around the middle of the rabbit with a straight edge and white markings on the hind feet. Their coat should be glossy and they are a medium size rabbit weighing 2.04 -2. 26 kg (4.5 lb. 5 lb.).
Behaviour
Dutch rabbits are very lively and alert and should make good pets although a prospective owner should be looking for a breeder that handles the rabbits regularly from a young age so that the rabbit is not too jumpy. Colours Black, Blue, Chocolate, Yellow, Tortoiseshell, Steel Grey, Brown Grey, Pale Grey and Tri Colour
By using body language rabbits can stamp their feet or with a flash of a tail they can be seen and heard by other rabbits over a long distance.
Feeding Rabbits require a high fibre with lots of low quality hay (dried grass) or straw and low protein feed to prevent digestive problems, all rabbits do better on a poor quality hay than on a better quality hay such as timothy hay. Use rabbit pellets which can be purchased from pet shops to provide all your rabbits dietary needs, along with all types of fresh fruit, vegetables (green stuffs) and all types of roots. Most green stuffs are suitable for rabbits although be careful to avoid feeding potatoes (they have toxic parts) lettuce, chicory, chickweed and dandelions (can cause diarrhoea if fed in excess). Extra vitamins, salt licks are not generally required and mine never get any. I also use leaves from blackberries, raspberries, strawberries and other fruit bushes, along with a lot of wild greens during the summer.
Any changes in diet must be made slowly (green stuffs and prepared feeds) over a period of a couple of weeks, to avoid digestive upsets. Fresh water must be available at all times and renewed daily.
To enable your rabbit to extract as much protein, vitamins and minerals from their food as possible, they digest their food twice, these are soft, kidney shaped droppings which are covered in a small amount of mucous. These droppings are very different from the dry round droppings that you will usually see your rabbit passing.
Rabbits are herbivorous and wild rabbits will spend most of their lives grazing on grass, foliage, flowers and roots
Housing
For first time rabbit owner once you get home with your rabbit, put it in your cage and leave it for 48 house so that it can get used to its new surroundings before you start handling it, if you start to handle it too early you could end up with a very grumpy young rabbit from the start.
Rabbits can be kept indoors or outdoors, either way they need their own space in an appropriate cage or hutch. There are many purpose built cages and hutches available, alternatively you could build your own. It is recommended that you purchase the best quality you can afford, your rabbit will need it for 7--12 years. Make sure that the hutch is large enough for your rabbit to stretch full out, and high enough for your rabbit to stand upright. Dutch rabbits are generally comfortable in a 4' x 2' hutch. If kept outdoors, the hutch should have a dark enclosed area to provide your rabbit with a quiet space. The main living area should be large enough for your rabbit to stretch full out, and have wire mesh on the door. The hutch should be at least 6'; off the floor to provide adequate ventilation. In the winter you can move your rabbits indoors or into a shed. They are also quite happy remaining out of doors, providing extra protection such as an old blanket draped over the front of the hutch at night in very cold weather. Remember rabbits need good ventilation, you cannot therefore leave the cover down permanently otherwise your rabbit will succumb to chest infections from the damp, ammonia or overheating, and rabbits die from all of these.
Bedding
Hay, straw and wood chips all make suitable bedding for rabbits. It is down to personal choice which you use, however, research has shown that rabbits will choose straw rather than wood chip or wire bottomed cages. All bedding should be renewed at least once a week, and the hutch should be washed, scrubbed and disinfected several times per year.
Rabbits can live out doors quite happily at minus 20c or below, all they need is plenty of bedding and a 4 inch layer of shavings
Exercise
Rabbits need regular stimulation and exercise in a safe environment. This can be in a purpose made rabbit run or simply by bringing your rabbit indoors and letting it play in your living room. Rabbits that are playing outside of their hutches, either in a run or indoors, should be supervised at all times and their play area must be 'rabbit proofed' by removing any hazards. Young rabbits will enjoy exercise, but be careful not to over do it, particularly if you are still in the 'getting to know each other' period.
Rabbits are sociable creatures and enjoy the company of humans, dogs, cats and other rabbits if carefully introduced. It is generally suggested that each rabbit has its own hutch (particularly if you intend to show it) as rabbits are like children and prefer not to share 'bedrooms'. They can, however, socialise together in common space, such as rabbit runs, and will like being able to see and hear another rabbit when they are in their own hutches. 2 bucks must never be put together even in a run if they have not been castrated (they will fight).
Rabbits need to be occupied and they love playing with toys. This can include manufactured toys for human babies, birds, cats, dogs, hamsters etc. But rabbits will equally get hours of enjoyment from some very cheap, readily available items in the household, blocks of wood, planks, plastic flower pots.
Rabbits can get exercise by taking them out on a harness and lead, but the problem with this is that rabbits can pick up diseases and fleas left on the grass by other rabbits, if their vaccinations are up to date they should not get any of the diseases but they will still pick up fleas.
Rabbits left to run around the home while the householder is out will chew wires, electric leads and furniture, these pets should be put in a pen or hutch while the householders are not at home.
Health
It is recommend that you get your rabbit covered by Pet Insurance as veterinary fees can mount up. Never leave a rabbit in the sole care of a child. As an adult you will have to assume sole responsibility for the health and welfare of your rabbit.
To prevent territorial behaviour of both bucks (males) and does (females), it is suggested that pet rabbits are neutered, if they are not neutered then it should be one rabbit per cage. Never put intact cavies / guinea-pigs in with intact rabbits as they will both sexually abuse each other, cavies / guinea- pigs should be housed with others of the same species. Males can be neutered at around 3-4 months, and does at 6 months. Females over 2-3 years old that are not being regularly bred from are at high risk of developing uterine cancer unless neutered.
Rabbits have little ability to regulate their body temperature and die very easily from heat stroke. Ensure adequate shade is provided at all times. Handle your rabbit daily, and it will generally enjoy your company. Never pick a rabbit up by its ears, and always support your rabbits back and hind quarters when handling. Rabbits can easily experience spinal injuries. Rabbits nails need clipping every 6-8 weeks and teeth should be checked weekly to ensure they are correctly aligned. Rabbits moult 2-4 times a year, only one of these will be heavy (usually late Spring/early Summer).
Seek veterinary advice if your rabbit develops discharges from the eye, nose or mouth, has scabs inside its ears, is passing diarrhoea or mucous, or stops eating and/or drinking. Any ill rabbit must always be given drinking water in a bowl. Water bottles are a clean, hygienic way of providing water if you rabbit is fit and well, but ill rabbits often become listless and will be unlikely to be bothered to lift their heads up to the spout of a bottle and will dehydrate and die very quickly. If at all worried about your rabbit seek Veterinary Advice as sick or injured rabbits die very quickly
Healthy rabbits kept in clean conditions should not need bathing, if you think your rabbit needs a bath, first sort out why you think so and what you have done wrong in the first place.
Male Rabbit-BUCK (Sire) Female Rabbit-DOE (Dam) Young rabbit- KIT (offspring)
Breeding
All rabbits should have their first litter before they reach 12 months old, if this is left until latter complications can set in and 95% of all older female rabbits die. Males can father a litter anytime from 9 months old up to 12 years old. When breeding each doe should have her own cage to have her litter in, that way she will feel safe and in wild rabbits the pregnant doe leaves all the other rabbits and makes a stop (small burrow) where only she knows the litter can be found and it is not until the kits are ready to leave the stop that they return to the larger warren and all the other rabbits.
Pregnant rabbits can be handled until she starts pulling out her belly fur, at this point she should not be handled as the stress of the forthcoming litter and being handled may cause her to abort the litter.
If you intend breeding rabbits try to get hold of some pedigree stock, there are millions of cross bred rabbits about and a lot just end up being slaughtered, but with pedigree stock is always some one out there who will buy them.
The doe must be put in with the buck who has to be housed separately and the matting only take a couple of seconds, then for the next three weeks she can be treated just as if she had not be mated only with a slight increase of food, by the 21 st day you should be starting to prepare for the birth by putting lots of hay or straw in the bedding area so that the doe can start to build her nest. Longhaired rabbits such as Angora's, Cashmeres and Lionheads need a lot of grooming and short hair rabbits require less grooming
My experience
I have bred, exhibited and owned rabbits since the early 70's, all of my rabbits are healthy and well cared for, they live up to 12 years.
Showing
The Hobby of Breeding %26amp; Exhibiting Rabbits is called 'The Fancy'. Every weekend, all over the country, rabbit shows are taking place. Many are Local Rabbit Clubs holding their single-day shows in places such as Village Halls and Scout Huts. Others are two-day Championship Shows held in Sports Centres and School Halls.
Contact me if you need any more help.
Stop him getting behind the TV, move it so there's no space.
Give him his own toys to chew on, and praise him for doing so.
Don't try and discipline him for chewing ';bad'; things; he wont understand and will get scared and may end up lashing out at you (and hurting you).
To stop him chewing ';bad'; things either make a very loud noise (I shout my rabbits names) or get a squirt-bottle of water and squirt them in the face, this will make him want to clean himself *right away* and will ';distract'; him from chewing. Eventually he will learn that when he chews wires something annoying or loud happens so it's best not to do it.
You can't train a rabbit. The only thing you can do is block off the areas that he likes to hide in and keep a really close eye on him when you let him out of his cage. Or you can let him out in the bathroom instead of in your room, there really won't be anything for him to get into there. Good luck!
You absolutely can train a rabbit. My rabbit is free range, like a cat, she has complete run of my house with two litterboxes.
To train her from stop chewing mommy's pottery barn furniture and wires, I read a book about clicker training. When she went near an area where i didn't want her (behind the entertainment center where every wire known to man kind is) I would take out a spray bottle say ';Sophie no no no'; and spray her body with water. I would do this consistently. Now, two and a half years later, I see her going to a bad area and say ';Sophie no no no'; and by the time I get to the 2nd no, she darts off in the opposite direction of where she was heading. It's kinda like Pavlov's dog. She associates that phrase with getting wet. You do have to reinforce the training and that takes commitment on part of the pet owner.
Sophie will come on comand, return to her house on command, knows the words no and stay, and knows the area in the kitchen and living room she is not allowed in. BUT like any child, likes to push my buttons occassionally and see if I let her slide on some things or if i'll call her on it. To the people that say a rabbit can't be trained, they simply don't have the patience and commitment to do the training.
As far as wires, i bought plastic aquarium tubing. It's cheap and you can slice right down the middle and pop the cord right in. It will protect your cords from bunny's teeth. Also, if you bun likes to pull at carpeting, spray some perfume in that area, directly on to the carpeting. Rabbits have a very strong sense of smell and won't continue pulling at the carpet there.
Chewing things that get in their line of vision or escape route is survival instinct for rabbits.
I've had house rabbits for decades, bitter apple never worked for us, nor did wrapping wires in aluminum foil, plastic tape, putting red pepper on them, etc.
I would not suggest using the rabbits name in a scary or frightening way either...could form negative associations.
Even serious electric shock and burns did not deter my rabbits from chewing a wire, so I am doubtful about the squirtgun method.
The real solution is to think like a rabbit. Get on the floor and look around. Imagine you're an animal at the bottom of the food chain and that you NEED to have clear pathways so you can see predators and run away from them fast.
Anything that sticks out is fair game for your teeth. Wires need to be in metal conduit, taped flush to walls and floors with tape that blends into the color of the wall, or kept up higher than the bunny can reach when it gets on its hind legs.
Some people have had success with putting the wires in PVC piping, but I've seen rabbits chew on/through that too...if they feel it is interferring with their safety.
For your own safety and the bunny's...don't put wires under rugs (fire hazard) and do make sure bunny can't get to them..electrocution and fire hazard. Get those wires up high, or limit bunny to a room that is truly bunny proof.
Books that stick out from shelves, the bottoms of couches and curtains are also vulnerable to bunny's instinct.
Personally, I think it's sort cruel to try to teach such a simple creature NOT to do something that is so instinctual. Rabbits aren't dumb...but they are rabbits, and they think, act and respond like rabbits. Since we are the ones taking them out of their natural environment, where their instincts work beautifully, seems like the responsibility is on us to create a new environment that is rabbit friendly. Not to scare or punish the rabbit for being a rabbit because it is inconvenient to our lifestyle.eye look
Bitter apple. Works like a charm!How can i train my pet rabbit from getting in bad areas ans chewing wires?
hahaha, i had the same problem!!! it was pretty rough. we had to do re-wiring on EVERYTHING! went through 3 ps2 controlers, and God only knows how many phone chargers!! ha.. but they say you can get some spray to stop it, but i never invested in that, i just started letting him outside when he wanted out of his cage instead of my bedroom. its pretty impossible to go without remodeling or duct tapping the wires to the walls.
Keep all the weirs in tubes
This may not be relevant to your question and is not just about dutch rabbits.
A lot of pet owners like myself are still learning about our pets even after 35 years of owning rabbits. I hand the following out to anyone who buys any of my rabbit breeds. I live in the UK, I breed and exhibit standard rex, dutch, harlequins, magpies and dwarf lops rabbits, also ferrets and ferret cross European polecat hybrids, I got my first pet ferret and pet rabbit over 50 years ago.
History
Dutch rabbits, along with the English, were the most popular pet and exhibition rabbits a position that has now been filled by the Lop breeds. Originally from Holland or Belgium, the breed is striking in its appearance with a white blaze carrying up to a point between the ears, a saddle of colour continuing right around the middle of the rabbit with a straight edge and white markings on the hind feet. Their coat should be glossy and they are a medium size rabbit weighing 2.04 -2. 26 kg (4.5 lb. 5 lb.).
Behaviour
Dutch rabbits are very lively and alert and should make good pets although a prospective owner should be looking for a breeder that handles the rabbits regularly from a young age so that the rabbit is not too jumpy. Colours Black, Blue, Chocolate, Yellow, Tortoiseshell, Steel Grey, Brown Grey, Pale Grey and Tri Colour
By using body language rabbits can stamp their feet or with a flash of a tail they can be seen and heard by other rabbits over a long distance.
Feeding Rabbits require a high fibre with lots of low quality hay (dried grass) or straw and low protein feed to prevent digestive problems, all rabbits do better on a poor quality hay than on a better quality hay such as timothy hay. Use rabbit pellets which can be purchased from pet shops to provide all your rabbits dietary needs, along with all types of fresh fruit, vegetables (green stuffs) and all types of roots. Most green stuffs are suitable for rabbits although be careful to avoid feeding potatoes (they have toxic parts) lettuce, chicory, chickweed and dandelions (can cause diarrhoea if fed in excess). Extra vitamins, salt licks are not generally required and mine never get any. I also use leaves from blackberries, raspberries, strawberries and other fruit bushes, along with a lot of wild greens during the summer.
Any changes in diet must be made slowly (green stuffs and prepared feeds) over a period of a couple of weeks, to avoid digestive upsets. Fresh water must be available at all times and renewed daily.
To enable your rabbit to extract as much protein, vitamins and minerals from their food as possible, they digest their food twice, these are soft, kidney shaped droppings which are covered in a small amount of mucous. These droppings are very different from the dry round droppings that you will usually see your rabbit passing.
Rabbits are herbivorous and wild rabbits will spend most of their lives grazing on grass, foliage, flowers and roots
Housing
For first time rabbit owner once you get home with your rabbit, put it in your cage and leave it for 48 house so that it can get used to its new surroundings before you start handling it, if you start to handle it too early you could end up with a very grumpy young rabbit from the start.
Rabbits can be kept indoors or outdoors, either way they need their own space in an appropriate cage or hutch. There are many purpose built cages and hutches available, alternatively you could build your own. It is recommended that you purchase the best quality you can afford, your rabbit will need it for 7--12 years. Make sure that the hutch is large enough for your rabbit to stretch full out, and high enough for your rabbit to stand upright. Dutch rabbits are generally comfortable in a 4' x 2' hutch. If kept outdoors, the hutch should have a dark enclosed area to provide your rabbit with a quiet space. The main living area should be large enough for your rabbit to stretch full out, and have wire mesh on the door. The hutch should be at least 6'; off the floor to provide adequate ventilation. In the winter you can move your rabbits indoors or into a shed. They are also quite happy remaining out of doors, providing extra protection such as an old blanket draped over the front of the hutch at night in very cold weather. Remember rabbits need good ventilation, you cannot therefore leave the cover down permanently otherwise your rabbit will succumb to chest infections from the damp, ammonia or overheating, and rabbits die from all of these.
Bedding
Hay, straw and wood chips all make suitable bedding for rabbits. It is down to personal choice which you use, however, research has shown that rabbits will choose straw rather than wood chip or wire bottomed cages. All bedding should be renewed at least once a week, and the hutch should be washed, scrubbed and disinfected several times per year.
Rabbits can live out doors quite happily at minus 20c or below, all they need is plenty of bedding and a 4 inch layer of shavings
Exercise
Rabbits need regular stimulation and exercise in a safe environment. This can be in a purpose made rabbit run or simply by bringing your rabbit indoors and letting it play in your living room. Rabbits that are playing outside of their hutches, either in a run or indoors, should be supervised at all times and their play area must be 'rabbit proofed' by removing any hazards. Young rabbits will enjoy exercise, but be careful not to over do it, particularly if you are still in the 'getting to know each other' period.
Rabbits are sociable creatures and enjoy the company of humans, dogs, cats and other rabbits if carefully introduced. It is generally suggested that each rabbit has its own hutch (particularly if you intend to show it) as rabbits are like children and prefer not to share 'bedrooms'. They can, however, socialise together in common space, such as rabbit runs, and will like being able to see and hear another rabbit when they are in their own hutches. 2 bucks must never be put together even in a run if they have not been castrated (they will fight).
Rabbits need to be occupied and they love playing with toys. This can include manufactured toys for human babies, birds, cats, dogs, hamsters etc. But rabbits will equally get hours of enjoyment from some very cheap, readily available items in the household, blocks of wood, planks, plastic flower pots.
Rabbits can get exercise by taking them out on a harness and lead, but the problem with this is that rabbits can pick up diseases and fleas left on the grass by other rabbits, if their vaccinations are up to date they should not get any of the diseases but they will still pick up fleas.
Rabbits left to run around the home while the householder is out will chew wires, electric leads and furniture, these pets should be put in a pen or hutch while the householders are not at home.
Health
It is recommend that you get your rabbit covered by Pet Insurance as veterinary fees can mount up. Never leave a rabbit in the sole care of a child. As an adult you will have to assume sole responsibility for the health and welfare of your rabbit.
To prevent territorial behaviour of both bucks (males) and does (females), it is suggested that pet rabbits are neutered, if they are not neutered then it should be one rabbit per cage. Never put intact cavies / guinea-pigs in with intact rabbits as they will both sexually abuse each other, cavies / guinea- pigs should be housed with others of the same species. Males can be neutered at around 3-4 months, and does at 6 months. Females over 2-3 years old that are not being regularly bred from are at high risk of developing uterine cancer unless neutered.
Rabbits have little ability to regulate their body temperature and die very easily from heat stroke. Ensure adequate shade is provided at all times. Handle your rabbit daily, and it will generally enjoy your company. Never pick a rabbit up by its ears, and always support your rabbits back and hind quarters when handling. Rabbits can easily experience spinal injuries. Rabbits nails need clipping every 6-8 weeks and teeth should be checked weekly to ensure they are correctly aligned. Rabbits moult 2-4 times a year, only one of these will be heavy (usually late Spring/early Summer).
Seek veterinary advice if your rabbit develops discharges from the eye, nose or mouth, has scabs inside its ears, is passing diarrhoea or mucous, or stops eating and/or drinking. Any ill rabbit must always be given drinking water in a bowl. Water bottles are a clean, hygienic way of providing water if you rabbit is fit and well, but ill rabbits often become listless and will be unlikely to be bothered to lift their heads up to the spout of a bottle and will dehydrate and die very quickly. If at all worried about your rabbit seek Veterinary Advice as sick or injured rabbits die very quickly
Healthy rabbits kept in clean conditions should not need bathing, if you think your rabbit needs a bath, first sort out why you think so and what you have done wrong in the first place.
Male Rabbit-BUCK (Sire) Female Rabbit-DOE (Dam) Young rabbit- KIT (offspring)
Breeding
All rabbits should have their first litter before they reach 12 months old, if this is left until latter complications can set in and 95% of all older female rabbits die. Males can father a litter anytime from 9 months old up to 12 years old. When breeding each doe should have her own cage to have her litter in, that way she will feel safe and in wild rabbits the pregnant doe leaves all the other rabbits and makes a stop (small burrow) where only she knows the litter can be found and it is not until the kits are ready to leave the stop that they return to the larger warren and all the other rabbits.
Pregnant rabbits can be handled until she starts pulling out her belly fur, at this point she should not be handled as the stress of the forthcoming litter and being handled may cause her to abort the litter.
If you intend breeding rabbits try to get hold of some pedigree stock, there are millions of cross bred rabbits about and a lot just end up being slaughtered, but with pedigree stock is always some one out there who will buy them.
The doe must be put in with the buck who has to be housed separately and the matting only take a couple of seconds, then for the next three weeks she can be treated just as if she had not be mated only with a slight increase of food, by the 21 st day you should be starting to prepare for the birth by putting lots of hay or straw in the bedding area so that the doe can start to build her nest. Longhaired rabbits such as Angora's, Cashmeres and Lionheads need a lot of grooming and short hair rabbits require less grooming
My experience
I have bred, exhibited and owned rabbits since the early 70's, all of my rabbits are healthy and well cared for, they live up to 12 years.
Showing
The Hobby of Breeding %26amp; Exhibiting Rabbits is called 'The Fancy'. Every weekend, all over the country, rabbit shows are taking place. Many are Local Rabbit Clubs holding their single-day shows in places such as Village Halls and Scout Huts. Others are two-day Championship Shows held in Sports Centres and School Halls.
Contact me if you need any more help.
Stop him getting behind the TV, move it so there's no space.
Give him his own toys to chew on, and praise him for doing so.
Don't try and discipline him for chewing ';bad'; things; he wont understand and will get scared and may end up lashing out at you (and hurting you).
To stop him chewing ';bad'; things either make a very loud noise (I shout my rabbits names) or get a squirt-bottle of water and squirt them in the face, this will make him want to clean himself *right away* and will ';distract'; him from chewing. Eventually he will learn that when he chews wires something annoying or loud happens so it's best not to do it.
You can't train a rabbit. The only thing you can do is block off the areas that he likes to hide in and keep a really close eye on him when you let him out of his cage. Or you can let him out in the bathroom instead of in your room, there really won't be anything for him to get into there. Good luck!
You absolutely can train a rabbit. My rabbit is free range, like a cat, she has complete run of my house with two litterboxes.
To train her from stop chewing mommy's pottery barn furniture and wires, I read a book about clicker training. When she went near an area where i didn't want her (behind the entertainment center where every wire known to man kind is) I would take out a spray bottle say ';Sophie no no no'; and spray her body with water. I would do this consistently. Now, two and a half years later, I see her going to a bad area and say ';Sophie no no no'; and by the time I get to the 2nd no, she darts off in the opposite direction of where she was heading. It's kinda like Pavlov's dog. She associates that phrase with getting wet. You do have to reinforce the training and that takes commitment on part of the pet owner.
Sophie will come on comand, return to her house on command, knows the words no and stay, and knows the area in the kitchen and living room she is not allowed in. BUT like any child, likes to push my buttons occassionally and see if I let her slide on some things or if i'll call her on it. To the people that say a rabbit can't be trained, they simply don't have the patience and commitment to do the training.
As far as wires, i bought plastic aquarium tubing. It's cheap and you can slice right down the middle and pop the cord right in. It will protect your cords from bunny's teeth. Also, if you bun likes to pull at carpeting, spray some perfume in that area, directly on to the carpeting. Rabbits have a very strong sense of smell and won't continue pulling at the carpet there.
Chewing things that get in their line of vision or escape route is survival instinct for rabbits.
I've had house rabbits for decades, bitter apple never worked for us, nor did wrapping wires in aluminum foil, plastic tape, putting red pepper on them, etc.
I would not suggest using the rabbits name in a scary or frightening way either...could form negative associations.
Even serious electric shock and burns did not deter my rabbits from chewing a wire, so I am doubtful about the squirtgun method.
The real solution is to think like a rabbit. Get on the floor and look around. Imagine you're an animal at the bottom of the food chain and that you NEED to have clear pathways so you can see predators and run away from them fast.
Anything that sticks out is fair game for your teeth. Wires need to be in metal conduit, taped flush to walls and floors with tape that blends into the color of the wall, or kept up higher than the bunny can reach when it gets on its hind legs.
Some people have had success with putting the wires in PVC piping, but I've seen rabbits chew on/through that too...if they feel it is interferring with their safety.
For your own safety and the bunny's...don't put wires under rugs (fire hazard) and do make sure bunny can't get to them..electrocution and fire hazard. Get those wires up high, or limit bunny to a room that is truly bunny proof.
Books that stick out from shelves, the bottoms of couches and curtains are also vulnerable to bunny's instinct.
Personally, I think it's sort cruel to try to teach such a simple creature NOT to do something that is so instinctual. Rabbits aren't dumb...but they are rabbits, and they think, act and respond like rabbits. Since we are the ones taking them out of their natural environment, where their instincts work beautifully, seems like the responsibility is on us to create a new environment that is rabbit friendly. Not to scare or punish the rabbit for being a rabbit because it is inconvenient to our lifestyle.
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