How can i train my pet rabbit from getting in bad areas ans chewing wires?

my rabbit is so annoying he likes to hide behind my tv and chew all the wires %26amp; no im not up to remodelling my room. are there any training suggestions to get him away from the damn wires?How can i train my pet rabbit from getting in bad areas ans chewing wires?
Bitter apple. Works like a charm!How can i train my pet rabbit from getting in bad areas ans chewing wires?
hahaha, i had the same problem!!! it was pretty rough. we had to do re-wiring on EVERYTHING! went through 3 ps2 controlers, and God only knows how many phone chargers!! ha.. but they say you can get some spray to stop it, but i never invested in that, i just started letting him outside when he wanted out of his cage instead of my bedroom. its pretty impossible to go without remodeling or duct tapping the wires to the walls.
Keep all the weirs in tubes





This may not be relevant to your question and is not just about dutch rabbits.


A lot of pet owners like myself are still learning about our pets even after 35 years of owning rabbits. I hand the following out to anyone who buys any of my rabbit breeds. I live in the UK, I breed and exhibit standard rex, dutch, harlequins, magpies and dwarf lops rabbits, also ferrets and ferret cross European polecat hybrids, I got my first pet ferret and pet rabbit over 50 years ago.


History


Dutch rabbits, along with the English, were the most popular pet and exhibition rabbits a position that has now been filled by the Lop breeds. Originally from Holland or Belgium, the breed is striking in its appearance with a white blaze carrying up to a point between the ears, a saddle of colour continuing right around the middle of the rabbit with a straight edge and white markings on the hind feet. Their coat should be glossy and they are a medium size rabbit weighing 2.04 -2. 26 kg (4.5 lb. 5 lb.).


Behaviour


Dutch rabbits are very lively and alert and should make good pets although a prospective owner should be looking for a breeder that handles the rabbits regularly from a young age so that the rabbit is not too jumpy. Colours Black, Blue, Chocolate, Yellow, Tortoiseshell, Steel Grey, Brown Grey, Pale Grey and Tri Colour


By using body language rabbits can stamp their feet or with a flash of a tail they can be seen and heard by other rabbits over a long distance.





Feeding Rabbits require a high fibre with lots of low quality hay (dried grass) or straw and low protein feed to prevent digestive problems, all rabbits do better on a poor quality hay than on a better quality hay such as timothy hay. Use rabbit pellets which can be purchased from pet shops to provide all your rabbits dietary needs, along with all types of fresh fruit, vegetables (green stuffs) and all types of roots. Most green stuffs are suitable for rabbits although be careful to avoid feeding potatoes (they have toxic parts) lettuce, chicory, chickweed and dandelions (can cause diarrhoea if fed in excess). Extra vitamins, salt licks are not generally required and mine never get any. I also use leaves from blackberries, raspberries, strawberries and other fruit bushes, along with a lot of wild greens during the summer.





Any changes in diet must be made slowly (green stuffs and prepared feeds) over a period of a couple of weeks, to avoid digestive upsets. Fresh water must be available at all times and renewed daily.


To enable your rabbit to extract as much protein, vitamins and minerals from their food as possible, they digest their food twice, these are soft, kidney shaped droppings which are covered in a small amount of mucous. These droppings are very different from the dry round droppings that you will usually see your rabbit passing.





Rabbits are herbivorous and wild rabbits will spend most of their lives grazing on grass, foliage, flowers and roots





Housing


For first time rabbit owner once you get home with your rabbit, put it in your cage and leave it for 48 house so that it can get used to its new surroundings before you start handling it, if you start to handle it too early you could end up with a very grumpy young rabbit from the start.


Rabbits can be kept indoors or outdoors, either way they need their own space in an appropriate cage or hutch. There are many purpose built cages and hutches available, alternatively you could build your own. It is recommended that you purchase the best quality you can afford, your rabbit will need it for 7--12 years. Make sure that the hutch is large enough for your rabbit to stretch full out, and high enough for your rabbit to stand upright. Dutch rabbits are generally comfortable in a 4' x 2' hutch. If kept outdoors, the hutch should have a dark enclosed area to provide your rabbit with a quiet space. The main living area should be large enough for your rabbit to stretch full out, and have wire mesh on the door. The hutch should be at least 6'; off the floor to provide adequate ventilation. In the winter you can move your rabbits indoors or into a shed. They are also quite happy remaining out of doors, providing extra protection such as an old blanket draped over the front of the hutch at night in very cold weather. Remember rabbits need good ventilation, you cannot therefore leave the cover down permanently otherwise your rabbit will succumb to chest infections from the damp, ammonia or overheating, and rabbits die from all of these.





Bedding


Hay, straw and wood chips all make suitable bedding for rabbits. It is down to personal choice which you use, however, research has shown that rabbits will choose straw rather than wood chip or wire bottomed cages. All bedding should be renewed at least once a week, and the hutch should be washed, scrubbed and disinfected several times per year.


Rabbits can live out doors quite happily at minus 20c or below, all they need is plenty of bedding and a 4 inch layer of shavings





Exercise


Rabbits need regular stimulation and exercise in a safe environment. This can be in a purpose made rabbit run or simply by bringing your rabbit indoors and letting it play in your living room. Rabbits that are playing outside of their hutches, either in a run or indoors, should be supervised at all times and their play area must be 'rabbit proofed' by removing any hazards. Young rabbits will enjoy exercise, but be careful not to over do it, particularly if you are still in the 'getting to know each other' period.


Rabbits are sociable creatures and enjoy the company of humans, dogs, cats and other rabbits if carefully introduced. It is generally suggested that each rabbit has its own hutch (particularly if you intend to show it) as rabbits are like children and prefer not to share 'bedrooms'. They can, however, socialise together in common space, such as rabbit runs, and will like being able to see and hear another rabbit when they are in their own hutches. 2 bucks must never be put together even in a run if they have not been castrated (they will fight).





Rabbits need to be occupied and they love playing with toys. This can include manufactured toys for human babies, birds, cats, dogs, hamsters etc. But rabbits will equally get hours of enjoyment from some very cheap, readily available items in the household, blocks of wood, planks, plastic flower pots.





Rabbits can get exercise by taking them out on a harness and lead, but the problem with this is that rabbits can pick up diseases and fleas left on the grass by other rabbits, if their vaccinations are up to date they should not get any of the diseases but they will still pick up fleas.





Rabbits left to run around the home while the householder is out will chew wires, electric leads and furniture, these pets should be put in a pen or hutch while the householders are not at home.





Health


It is recommend that you get your rabbit covered by Pet Insurance as veterinary fees can mount up. Never leave a rabbit in the sole care of a child. As an adult you will have to assume sole responsibility for the health and welfare of your rabbit.





To prevent territorial behaviour of both bucks (males) and does (females), it is suggested that pet rabbits are neutered, if they are not neutered then it should be one rabbit per cage. Never put intact cavies / guinea-pigs in with intact rabbits as they will both sexually abuse each other, cavies / guinea- pigs should be housed with others of the same species. Males can be neutered at around 3-4 months, and does at 6 months. Females over 2-3 years old that are not being regularly bred from are at high risk of developing uterine cancer unless neutered.





Rabbits have little ability to regulate their body temperature and die very easily from heat stroke. Ensure adequate shade is provided at all times. Handle your rabbit daily, and it will generally enjoy your company. Never pick a rabbit up by its ears, and always support your rabbits back and hind quarters when handling. Rabbits can easily experience spinal injuries. Rabbits nails need clipping every 6-8 weeks and teeth should be checked weekly to ensure they are correctly aligned. Rabbits moult 2-4 times a year, only one of these will be heavy (usually late Spring/early Summer).





Seek veterinary advice if your rabbit develops discharges from the eye, nose or mouth, has scabs inside its ears, is passing diarrhoea or mucous, or stops eating and/or drinking. Any ill rabbit must always be given drinking water in a bowl. Water bottles are a clean, hygienic way of providing water if you rabbit is fit and well, but ill rabbits often become listless and will be unlikely to be bothered to lift their heads up to the spout of a bottle and will dehydrate and die very quickly. If at all worried about your rabbit seek Veterinary Advice as sick or injured rabbits die very quickly


Healthy rabbits kept in clean conditions should not need bathing, if you think your rabbit needs a bath, first sort out why you think so and what you have done wrong in the first place.





Male Rabbit-BUCK (Sire) Female Rabbit-DOE (Dam) Young rabbit- KIT (offspring)


Breeding


All rabbits should have their first litter before they reach 12 months old, if this is left until latter complications can set in and 95% of all older female rabbits die. Males can father a litter anytime from 9 months old up to 12 years old. When breeding each doe should have her own cage to have her litter in, that way she will feel safe and in wild rabbits the pregnant doe leaves all the other rabbits and makes a stop (small burrow) where only she knows the litter can be found and it is not until the kits are ready to leave the stop that they return to the larger warren and all the other rabbits.


Pregnant rabbits can be handled until she starts pulling out her belly fur, at this point she should not be handled as the stress of the forthcoming litter and being handled may cause her to abort the litter.


If you intend breeding rabbits try to get hold of some pedigree stock, there are millions of cross bred rabbits about and a lot just end up being slaughtered, but with pedigree stock is always some one out there who will buy them.


The doe must be put in with the buck who has to be housed separately and the matting only take a couple of seconds, then for the next three weeks she can be treated just as if she had not be mated only with a slight increase of food, by the 21 st day you should be starting to prepare for the birth by putting lots of hay or straw in the bedding area so that the doe can start to build her nest. Longhaired rabbits such as Angora's, Cashmeres and Lionheads need a lot of grooming and short hair rabbits require less grooming





My experience


I have bred, exhibited and owned rabbits since the early 70's, all of my rabbits are healthy and well cared for, they live up to 12 years.





Showing


The Hobby of Breeding %26amp; Exhibiting Rabbits is called 'The Fancy'. Every weekend, all over the country, rabbit shows are taking place. Many are Local Rabbit Clubs holding their single-day shows in places such as Village Halls and Scout Huts. Others are two-day Championship Shows held in Sports Centres and School Halls.





Contact me if you need any more help.
Stop him getting behind the TV, move it so there's no space.





Give him his own toys to chew on, and praise him for doing so.





Don't try and discipline him for chewing ';bad'; things; he wont understand and will get scared and may end up lashing out at you (and hurting you).





To stop him chewing ';bad'; things either make a very loud noise (I shout my rabbits names) or get a squirt-bottle of water and squirt them in the face, this will make him want to clean himself *right away* and will ';distract'; him from chewing. Eventually he will learn that when he chews wires something annoying or loud happens so it's best not to do it.
You can't train a rabbit. The only thing you can do is block off the areas that he likes to hide in and keep a really close eye on him when you let him out of his cage. Or you can let him out in the bathroom instead of in your room, there really won't be anything for him to get into there. Good luck!
You absolutely can train a rabbit. My rabbit is free range, like a cat, she has complete run of my house with two litterboxes.





To train her from stop chewing mommy's pottery barn furniture and wires, I read a book about clicker training. When she went near an area where i didn't want her (behind the entertainment center where every wire known to man kind is) I would take out a spray bottle say ';Sophie no no no'; and spray her body with water. I would do this consistently. Now, two and a half years later, I see her going to a bad area and say ';Sophie no no no'; and by the time I get to the 2nd no, she darts off in the opposite direction of where she was heading. It's kinda like Pavlov's dog. She associates that phrase with getting wet. You do have to reinforce the training and that takes commitment on part of the pet owner.





Sophie will come on comand, return to her house on command, knows the words no and stay, and knows the area in the kitchen and living room she is not allowed in. BUT like any child, likes to push my buttons occassionally and see if I let her slide on some things or if i'll call her on it. To the people that say a rabbit can't be trained, they simply don't have the patience and commitment to do the training.





As far as wires, i bought plastic aquarium tubing. It's cheap and you can slice right down the middle and pop the cord right in. It will protect your cords from bunny's teeth. Also, if you bun likes to pull at carpeting, spray some perfume in that area, directly on to the carpeting. Rabbits have a very strong sense of smell and won't continue pulling at the carpet there.
Chewing things that get in their line of vision or escape route is survival instinct for rabbits.





I've had house rabbits for decades, bitter apple never worked for us, nor did wrapping wires in aluminum foil, plastic tape, putting red pepper on them, etc.





I would not suggest using the rabbits name in a scary or frightening way either...could form negative associations.





Even serious electric shock and burns did not deter my rabbits from chewing a wire, so I am doubtful about the squirtgun method.





The real solution is to think like a rabbit. Get on the floor and look around. Imagine you're an animal at the bottom of the food chain and that you NEED to have clear pathways so you can see predators and run away from them fast.





Anything that sticks out is fair game for your teeth. Wires need to be in metal conduit, taped flush to walls and floors with tape that blends into the color of the wall, or kept up higher than the bunny can reach when it gets on its hind legs.





Some people have had success with putting the wires in PVC piping, but I've seen rabbits chew on/through that too...if they feel it is interferring with their safety.





For your own safety and the bunny's...don't put wires under rugs (fire hazard) and do make sure bunny can't get to them..electrocution and fire hazard. Get those wires up high, or limit bunny to a room that is truly bunny proof.





Books that stick out from shelves, the bottoms of couches and curtains are also vulnerable to bunny's instinct.





Personally, I think it's sort cruel to try to teach such a simple creature NOT to do something that is so instinctual. Rabbits aren't dumb...but they are rabbits, and they think, act and respond like rabbits. Since we are the ones taking them out of their natural environment, where their instincts work beautifully, seems like the responsibility is on us to create a new environment that is rabbit friendly. Not to scare or punish the rabbit for being a rabbit because it is inconvenient to our lifestyle.