How do you age a rabbit?

I need to know how you can tell how old an adult rabbit is. A link to a website explaining it would be great.How do you age a rabbit?
There is really no way to tell the age of a rabbit. The best way to find out is to get a general idea from the person you received it from. If you got it from a shelter you may never know. Although u can get a general idea from many things.


You can tell a lot by how long their nails are, their general condition, their teeth, and for males: balls drop at about 6 months. You can tell it an adolescent if it鈥檚 ripping up everything in your house, and trying to mount stuffed animals. Females mature about 6 months too, so if they鈥檙e displaying sexual behavior.How do you age a rabbit?
There is no way of telling a rabbits age once it is matuer and even after 35 years of breeding, exhibiting and owning rabbits, i have problems





Following is what i hand out with all the rabbits i breed





History


Dutch rabbits, along with the English, were the most popular pet and exhibition rabbits a position that has now been filled by the Lop breeds. Originally from Holland or Belgium, the breed is striking in its appearance with a white blaze carrying up to a point between the ears, a saddle of colour continuing right around the middle of the rabbit with a straight edge and white markings on the hind feet. Their coat should be glossy and they are a medium size rabbit weighing 2.04 -2. 26 kg (4.5 lb. 5 lb.). Behaviour


Dutch rabbits are very lively and alert and should make good pets although a prospective owner should be looking for a breeder that handles the rabbits regularly from a young age so that the rabbit is not too jumpy. Colours Black, Blue, Chocolate, Yellow, Tortoiseshell, Steel Grey, Brown Grey, Pale Grey and Tri Colour


Feeding Rabbits require a high fibre with lots of hay (dried grass) or straw and low protein feed to prevent digestive problems. Use rabbit pellets which can be purchased from pet shops to provide all your rabbits dietary needs, along with fresh fruit and vegetables (green stuffs). Most green stuffs are suitable for rabbits although be careful to avoid feeding potatoes (they have toxic parts) lettuce, chicory, chickweed and dandelions (can cause diarrhoea if fed in excess). Extra vitamins and salt licks are not generally required.





Any changes in diet must be made slowly (green stuffs and prepared feeds) over a period of a couple of weeks, to avoid digestive upsets. Fresh water must be available at all times and renewed daily.


To enable your rabbit to extract as much protein, vitamins and minerals from their food as possible, they digest their food twice, these are soft, kidney shaped droppings which are covered in a small amount of mucous. These droppings are very different from the dry round droppings that you will usually see your rabbit passing.





Housing


Rabbits can be kept indoors or outdoors, either way they need their own space in an appropriate cage or hutch. There are many purpose built cages and hutches available, alternatively you could build your own. It is recommended that you purchase the best quality you can afford, your rabbit will need it for 7--10 years. Make sure that the hutch is large enough for your rabbit to stretch full out, and high enough for your rabbit to stand upright. Dutch rabbits are generally comfortable in a 4' x 2' hutch. If kept outdoors, the hutch should have a dark enclosed area to provide your rabbit with a quiet space. The main living area should be large enough for your rabbit to stretch full out, and have wire mesh on the door. The hutch should be at least 6'; off the floor to provide adequate ventilation. In the winter you can move your rabbits indoors or into a shed. They are also quite happy remaining out of doors, providing extra protection such as an old blanket draped over the front of the hutch at night in very cold weather. Remember rabbits need good ventilation, you cannot therefore leave the cover down permanently otherwise your rabbit will succumb to chest infections from the damp, ammonia or overheating, and rabbits die from all of these.





Bedding


Hay, straw and wood chips all make suitable bedding for rabbits. It is down to personal choice which you use, however, research has shown that rabbits will choose straw rather than wood chip or wire bottomed cages. All bedding should be renewed at least once a week, and the hutch should be washed, scrubbed and disinfected several times per year.





Exercise


Rabbits need regular stimulation and exercise in a safe environment. This can be in a purpose made rabbit run or simply by bringing your rabbit indoors and letting it play in your living room. Rabbits that are playing outside of their hutches, either in a run or indoors, should be supervised at all times and their play area must be 'rabbit proofed' by removing any hazards. Young rabbits will enjoy exercise, but be careful not to over do it, particularly if you are still in the 'getting to know each other' period.


Rabbits are sociable creatures and enjoy the company of humans, dogs, cats and other rabbits if carefully introduced. It is generally suggested that each rabbit has its own hutch (particularly if you intend to show it) as rabbits are like children and prefer not to share 'bedrooms'. They can, however, socialise together in common space, such as rabbit runs, and will like being able to see and hear another rabbit when they are in their own hutches. 2 bucks must never be put together even in a run if they have not been castrated (they will fight).





Rabbits need to be occupied and they love playing with toys. This can include manufactured toys for human babies, birds, cats, dogs, hamsters etc. But rabbits will equally get hours of enjoyment from some very cheap, readily available items in the household.





Health


It is recommend that you get your rabbit covered by Pet Insurance as veterinary fees can mount up. Never leave a rabbit in the sole care of a child. As an adult you will have to assume sole responsibility for the health and welfare of your rabbit.





To prevent territorial behaviour of both bucks (males) and does (females), it is suggested that pet rabbits are neutered. Males can be neutered at around 3-4 months, and does at 6 months. Females over 2-3 years old that are not being regularly bred from are at high risk of developing uterine cancer unless neutered.





Rabbits have little ability to regulate their body temperature and die very easily from heat stroke. Ensure adequate shade is provided at all times. Handle your rabbit daily, and it will generally enjoy your company. Never pick a rabbit up by its ears, and always support your rabbits back and hind quarters when handling. Rabbits can easily experience spinal injuries. Rabbits nails need clipping every 6-8 weeks and teeth should be checked weekly to ensure they are correctly aligned. Rabbits moult 2-4 times a year, only one of these will be heavy (usually late Spring/early Summer).





Seek veterinary advice if your rabbit develops discharges from the eye, nose or mouth, has scabs inside its ears, is passing diarrhoea or mucous, or stops eating and/or drinking. Any ill rabbit must always be given drinking water in a bowl. Water bottles are a clean, hygienic way of providing water if you rabbit is fit and well, but ill rabbits often become listless and will be unlikely to be bothered to lift their heads up to the spout of a bottle and will dehydrate and die very quickly. If at all worried about your rabbit seek Veterinary Advice.





My experience


I have bred, exhibited and owned rabbits since the early 70's.





Showing


The Hobby of Breeding %26amp; Exhibiting Rabbits is called 'The Fancy'. Every weekend, all over the country, rabbit shows are taking place. Many are Local Rabbit Clubs holding their single-day shows in places such as Village Halls and Scout Huts. Others are two-day Championship Shows held in Sports Centres and School Halls.
you can see the physical of the rabbit by looking there body especially the ear.
A rabbit will age really fast reading yahoo-answers.








and I mean quick!
Look at the ears,the longer the older though its not definitive and the teeth and the nails too.But Id suggest taking it to the vet for a more accurate estimate..Hope I helped
i think you go by how long the ears are or something like that. idk how long the diff ages are tho. just google it
Count the days since it has been born? Check the number of candles on its birthday cake? Cut its trunk and count the growth rings?


Sorry, I haven't been much help, but I hope I have brought a smile to your face.
Its a difficult thing to do, to get the rabbits age exactly. I can tell you how I can tell from my own rabbits.





Peayah, she is 6 yrs old. She is less active,





(Teddy)Bear's activity is the same lol. She dances from 1 end of the room to another. BUT, she has some grey hairs from her nose to the top of her mouth. I've had her since she was born + she never had that before. I have noticed my rabbits appearance has changed too. Depending on age, their fur appears unkept, they may get picky with food. You have to force feed them if this is the case.





Here's behaviour of an elderly rabbit.





Most of my rabbits seem to have that lack of muscle tone, i can feel their backbones more than I could when they were both younger


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We have watched over the years as our rabbits have become more mellow. The behavior of an older rabbit differs in several ways. Senior rabbits, move about a little slower, but they are still willing and able to learn new routines. Litterbox habits are still present, but some older rabbits have trouble getting into the box (cutting down the side is suggested). They sleep a lot more but wake up plenty eager for their treats.





We don't worry that much about property destruction from our elderly rabbits. We work towards encouraging them to chew. We keep them supplied with toys and exercise, and we revel in the fact that some are passing their tenth year.





Few people want to adopt older rabbits, probably due to fear of losing them too soon. A consideration in adopting a healthy older rabbit is that, while you may not be able to look forward to a prolonged period of time with your bunny, it can be a good trouble-free time.


http://www.rabbit.org/journal/3-3/age-re鈥?/a>





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http://petplace.compuserve.com/articles/鈥?/a>


Incontinence may also include soft stools that will mess up the bunny鈥檚 cage. This can be corrected with dietary changes.





Diet Can Help





One of the common complaints of owners of older rabbits is the soft, chain-like stools left in their rabbit鈥檚 cage. They can create quite an unsightly mess. Rabbits normally consume the cecal pellet droppings, those chain-like pellets, often shiny, comprising nutrients and partially digested materials. Eating these pellets affords the rabbit his opportunity to get the nutrients the second time around. Older rabbits fed too many carbohydrates (nuts, seeds, pellets, alfalfa), often do not need to eat the cecal pellets as they are getting way too many carbohydrates in their food. This can lead to obesity and a much shorter life.


Pet store hay is not the same quality as off-the-bale, fresh hay you would feed to your horse. This makes all the difference in the world to your rabbit鈥檚 desire to eat it, and subsequent increased health because of it.


Some greens may cause problems for your rabbit and make the condition worse. Some rabbits cannot tolerate much kale so be careful to see what works and what doesn鈥檛. Avoid cabbage and lettuce for older bunnies.





Cut down or eliminate the pellets in your older rabbit鈥檚 diet, but only if your rabbit is eating significant amounts of hay and greens. The House Rabbit Society recommends feeding 1/4 to 1/2 cup of pellets per day per six pounds of body weight, providing the rabbit is eating plenty of hay and greens.





Older rabbits are quite a delight as the terrible teenage years are past, leaving you a mature, loving rabbit to greet you morning and night. By providing the best care and diet for him, you may give him a long and healthy life. ';





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No proof for this statement : look at the back of there ears the more vanes they have the older they are


http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Age_of_a_rabbi鈥?/a>





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Changes in the blood volume of the rabbit with age


this article is too long to even add here


http://www.pubmedcentral.nih.gov/article鈥?/a>





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Here's some sites I found at an msn group





http://www.rabbit.org/journal/3-3/age-re鈥?/a>


scroll down 1/2 way till you find :


'; Mature Behavior ';





Activity





Rabbits slow down in their general activities after age two or so. They will sleep more, tire easier, and be a much calmer pet. As the years increase, some slow down even more. Sometimes with this decrease in activity, pain may play a part. '; http://petplace.compuserve.com/articles/鈥?/a>





http://www.rabbitcare.org/newsletter2.pd鈥?/a>





by Gil Stanzione, DVM





';Everyone wants their bunnies to live to a ripe old age, and to stay as healthy as possible for as long as possible.


As rabbits age, many begin to develop specific clinical problems we see in aging bunnies involve their urinary tract, and may be related to improper diet along with inadequate exercise.





http://www.vin.com/VINDBPub/SearchPB/Pro鈥?/a>





An outline of health problems an older rabbit can have + each health problems symptoms. Its worth a read + a link you may just want to keep on hand !!


'; Abscesses are common in older rabbits, especially those with a chronic history of infections, particularly pasteurella infections. . . To prevent obesity and to lose weight, rabbits are placed on a diet of limited high fiber pellets (1/8 to 1/4 cup/5 pounds of rabbit) and free choice grass hay and greens. ';


Read more about this at the link above.
Cut it in half and count the rings,Oh come on,i'm just jokeing,I beleive it's done by looking at or counting the teeth
look at it
There is no definitive way to tell the age of a rabbit. Unless you know when it was born.


I raise rabbits (Mini Rex) and have rabbits that are 5+ years and ones that are only a year old. They look the same. So you really can't tell.